Well, if there is no way pre-out, then you need to use a speaker to line level adapter, such as the Russound ADP-1.2.
Then you would need two transmitters and two receivers, you could get 4 Mpow transmitter/receivers, but probably something not battery powered would be preferable, of course...
Open headphones are the poor man's speakers, really only smart in a quiet listening room (or a studio), but they run circles around closed.
I haven't tried them, but if I were in your shoes, I would take advantage of recent access to affordable planar headphones, and buy a pair of Monoprice...
You've determined that...
The hardware works.
Any application suffers from the problem.
So, i'd guess software local to it's "sound card",
or a problem general to all of the OS.
Check settings for both.
Best of luck.
My guess is that it's a bum amp.
You could add a pre-amp to boost the signal being fed into it, and just never turn up the Bose control past half.
Also, the problem could be caused by something else?
Best of luck.
In a sense I would say the opposite is true in comparative quality, at the $1000 price point what you've read is definite, at your price point not so much. Everyone and their uncle makes products in that range, price isn't an indication of quality, all form factors have equal footing in that...
I have a Samsung TV with a USB port. It has been successful at playing a number mp4 videos, which it can still play, but there are others that have visual and no sound. These videos play fine on my computer, but not via the USB port on the TV. I have already updated the TV's firmware to no...
I've Probably read 50 articles and forums by now. What will work? What won't work? What is Ideal? Watts, rms, peak, peak to peak, Ohms, wiring, bi-wiring, solid state, tube, cheap, expensive, how do you match it all up? A chart would be very helpful.
I don't mean any offence but I likely...