Bang and olufsen speakers with right receiver

[Groc0319]

I just bought a pair of beovox s75s and I'm trying to figure out if they'll work with a pioneer vsx-49 receiver. Any thoughts? The guy I got the pioneer from said they were 8ohms but I can't confirm that anywhere. Also, I'm new to this whole thing so I'm struggling to understand which numbers I should care about.

My speakers specs are below:
Type: 6410
Continuous load 75 W
Music load 100 W
Impedance
4 - 8 ohms
Frequency response +4 -8 dB 36 - 20,000 Hz
Sensitivity 5 W
Gross volume 40 litre
Woofer: 25cm
Phase link unit: 12,5cm
Mid-range unit: 5cm
Tweeter:2,5cm
Dimensions W x H x D: 32 x 59 x 25 cm
Weight 11 kg

Does the continuous load of 75w mean I'm good to use them with a receiver that is 400w with 100w per channel in front and rear?

Also, it seems like the wires aren't marked for positive/negative. How do I hook them up without blowing anything?

Thanks for your help! And I'm really brand new to this so please assume I am as ill informed as I sound (and then some).

 

[Karadjgne]

The output of the receiver is tied directly to the volume nob. So if your volume goes from 0-100, don't turn the nob past 75. Chances are that you won't even drive them that high as they'll distort at such high levels, so just keep it lower, say 50 absolute tops.

Wires are almost always marked somehow. Some clear ones have a black or white stripe, or even the wires themselves, one will be copper (+) and one aluminium (-) or some wires have wierd edges to one side. Any kind of marking whatsoever almost always denotes a (+) side of the wire.
Mixing polarity won't blow up anything. The speaker cone itself at rest sits in the middle of its ability to move. When a note hits, the speaker is supposed to 'suck in' at the start of the note and will extend at the end. Reversed polarity means it'll do the opposite. This is sometimes done on purpose, depending on where and how the speaker is placed, there's usually a 'phase' switch on receivers for that reason. It really just takes the punch out of bass notes.

Household receivers are generally 8ohm per channel. You'll be perfect at 1 speaker per channel.

When things move, they get hot, even speakers, continuous load just means if you are listening to music for extended periods of time, don't go past 75 or you risk overheating the coils and burning up the speaker. Max load is the occasional bass hit that might peak at 100w is fine, but generally you'll want distortion free music, so keep it lower.

Frequency response is just that. Figure most hard hitting bass will be 40-100Hz, and ear piercing high notes will be upwards of 16,000Hz. Most have a hard time 'hearing' anything below 60Hz or above 12kHz so having a speaker capable of 36-20k just means you'll get a good representation of sound, some so low you only feel the rumble, some so high your dog looks at you funny.

Sensitivity. Takes power to make things move, and a concerted effort behind that power. Strongest guy in the world won't push a car by leaning on it. The 5w represents just how much or little power is needed by the speaker to actually do anything.
The rest is just the sizes of individual speakers, and how much airspace is in the enclosure. At 25cm, that's a 10" sub, with a 2" mid and 1" tweeter, so it'll put out some decent sound, enough to shake the windows, but not enough to actually represent an earthquake.