Question Hisense H55A6200UK Thick Black Vertical Line Centre

gibbsy09

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TV has fault as above I looked on YouTube for solutions one was to clean ribbons on the TCON board with an eraser I done this and there was no change, so I got the bright idea to clean them with alcohol, connected them back up and the result was worse, I now ended up with a blank screen, looked back on YouTube and someone had done the same thing with the alcohol, only they advised to let the alcohol dry before connecting back up, I never, have I messed things up, as far as I know I have connected the ribbons back up properly, there's lots of advice to make sure you push the ribbon in making sure the tab closes directly on the black line.

However this is just not possible with my Hisense TV, I have pushed the ribbons in as far as they will go, only the thick black line does not line up with the edge of the black tab, it's just not possible not with these ribbons they're in as far as they will go, I've been careful placing the ribbons back in as well as removing them, I just don't get how I've ended up with a worse result than before eg blank screen, as opposed to the thick vertical line, any help please.
 

BEAUFORD_SAVAGE

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Hello,
"one was to clean ribbons on the TCON board with an eraser I done this and there was no change"
That means the TC board was probably dead. What happened afterward insured it was dead.
See below.

As far as getting the cable in, you cant have the lockdown bar fully open, and to have the cable go in right in, the lockdown bar blocks the cable. The bar must be resting on the cable to get it to slide all the way in. (About a 20 degree angle or less). With the cable lined perfectly parallel to the connector, and going at a zero angle, (easier said than done), is a must.
To much force and the cable turns to junk. They are very sensitive. Be gentle but firm after cable and lockdown bar are all just right. If you have a GOOD, SMALL set of needle nose pliers
it can help a lot.

My guess is you used 70% rubbing alcohol, the other 30% is water. The alcohol evaporates first, leaving the H2O behind which evaporates much slower. In a tiny ribbon connector slot, the water could stay in there for some time after applying said alcohol.
If there was water there, you could have blown the main, or the TCON boards. (Unless the TV was never powered up)

At this time of year, heated houses have the humidity drop like a rock, making static electricity much more prevalent, and much higher voltage. If you build up 1000V, which is so low in the static world, you would not even feel a discharge into circuitry that will blow out at a very low voltage circuit of say 20 Vdc max. So you MUST be grounded when working on CMOS driver circuitry, like the TCON boards use. Voltages going to the LCD screen from the TCON to the screen are very low. This makes the TCON board very susceptible to static damage, and if you were not PROPERLY grounded, (Through a 1 Meg ohm resistor to the chassis ground) That is another very easy way to destroy the electronics, without even knowing it.
The TC board is so prone to damage, I bet yours was covered by a metal cover for safety.

Chances are very good this TV is permanently dead, unless you want to buy first, a new TCON board, and possibly a new main board as well, if the TC board doesn't do it.
When doing this work in the summer, windows open, your much less likely to damage circuitry at 50% humidity and higher, in fall and winter, no ground, no worky.
Good luck
 
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gibbsy09

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Hello,
"one was to clean ribbons on the TCON board with an eraser I done this and there was no change"
That means the TC board was probably dead. What happened afterward insured it was dead.
See below.

As far as getting the cable in, you cant have the lockdown bar fully open, and to have the cable go in right in, the lockdown bar blocks the cable. The bar must be resting on the cable to get it to slide all the way in. (About a 20 degree angle or less). With the cable lined perfectly parallel to the connector, and going at a zero angle, (easier said than done), is a must.
To much force and the cable turns to junk. They are very sensitive. Be gentle but firm after cable and lockdown bar are all just right. If you have a GOOD, SMALL set of needle nose pliers
it can help a lot.

My guess is you used 70% rubbing alcohol, the other 30% is water. The alcohol evaporates first, leaving the H2O behind which evaporates much slower. In a tiny ribbon connector slot, the water could stay in there for some time after applying said alcohol.
If there was water there, you could have blown the main, or the TCON boards. (Unless the TV was never powered up)

At this time of year, heated houses have the humidity drop like a rock, making static electricity much more prevalent, and much higher voltage. If you build up 1000V, which is so low in the static world, you would not even feel a discharge into circuitry that will blow out at a very low voltage circuit of say 20 Vdc max. So you MUST be grounded when working on CMOS driver circuitry, like the TCON boards use. Voltages going to the LCD screen from the TCON to the screen are very low. This makes the TCON board very susceptible to static damage, and if you were not PROPERLY grounded, (Through a 1 Meg ohm resistor to the chassis ground) That is another very easy way to destroy the electronics, without even knowing it.
The TC board is so prone to damage, I bet yours was covered by a metal cover for safety.

Chances are very good this TV is permanently dead, unless you want to buy first, a new TCON board, and possibly a new main board as well, if the TC board doesn't do it.
When doing this work in the summer, windows open, your much less likely to damage circuitry at 50% humidity and higher, in fall and winter, no ground, no worky.
Good luck
Thanks, brilliant answer and spot on I am guilty of all of the above you mentioned, is it better to use nearly 100% alcohol, the crime is I worked in an electronics factory for 12 years lol, and I blatantly ignored grounding my self, because I thought it would be to complicated expensive etc, could you give me a good and cheap way of grounding myself in the future, I know you can get get wrist straps off Ebay, but I never seen the point because I had knowwhere to plug it in, but now as I'm writing this I'm thinking I could have used a crocodile clip, to clip to the chassis, would that have grounded me sufficiently?

So I know possibly everything could be damaged and it's all my fault lol, but at least I know now, because i couldn't get my head round, why i had the vertical line to start with, i took out the ribbons then placed them back in, and ended up with a worse result, but now I know the reason, and yes I did power it back up, so just a few more questions to ask if you don't mind.

1) Is it possible that the alcohol could dry out, could I help it along with a hair dryer on the connectors I know they can take some heat, bad idea or good? just say lol, or just let it dry naturally. or might they already be dry, and it's like you said I've blown something.


2) I can get a T CON board on Ebay, with the ribbons fairly cheap its refurbished, but I cleaned both sides of the ribbons, meaning the side where the T CON board is, and also the side that connects to a long thin board that runs the full length of the top of the TV, with the tabs connected to it, i think someone called it the driver board, but when I googled driver board, it never came up with that shape of board, so not sure what it's called.

3) Lastly I'm not going to go chasing it buying all the boards eg main etc, but I am thinking TCON at least, possibly main, but is there a good chance I've also blown that driver board, the one I mentioned, and I don't think that one can be replaced anyway, also is there a good chance that the panel was already the issue right from the start, hope you'll reply, Thanks.
Side note just realised the wrist strap comes with a clip, been a while since I wore one lol, just ordered one from Ebay.
 
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BEAUFORD_SAVAGE

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Thanks, brilliant answer and spot on I am guilty of all of the above you mentioned, is it better to use nearly 100% alcohol, the crime is I worked in an electronics factory for 12 years lol, and I blatantly ignored grounding my self, because I thought it would be to complicated expensive etc, could you give me a good and cheap way of grounding myself in the future, I know you can get get wrist straps off Ebay, but I never seen the point because I had knowwhere to plug it in, but now as I'm writing this I'm thinking I could have used a crocodile clip, to clip to the chassis, would that have grounded me sufficiently?

So I know possibly everything could be damaged and it's all my fault lol, but at least I know now, because i couldn't get my head round, why i had the vertical line to start with, i took out the ribbons then placed them back in, and ended up with a worse result, but now I know the reason, and yes I did power it back up, so just a few more questions to ask if you don't mind.

1) Is it possible that the alcohol could dry out, could I help it along with a hair dryer on the connectors I know they can take some heat, bad idea or good? just say lol, or just let it dry naturally. or might they already be dry, and it's like you said I've blown something.


2) I can get a T CON board on Ebay, with the ribbons fairly cheap its refurbished, but I cleaned both sides of the ribbons, meaning the side where the T CON board is, and also the side that connects to a long thin board that runs the full length of the top of the TV, with the tabs connected to it, i think someone called it the driver board, but when I googled driver board, it never came up with that shape of board, so not sure what it's called.

3) Lastly I'm not going to go chasing it buying all the boards eg main etc, but I am thinking TCON at least, possibly main, but is there a good chance I've also blown that driver board, the one I mentioned, and I don't think that one can be replaced anyway, also is there a good chance that the panel was already the issue right from the start, hope you'll reply, Thanks.
Side note just realised the wrist strap comes with a clip, been a while since I wore one lol, just ordered one from Ebay.
Hello,
Jeez, it's a pleasure to reply to someone who has an inquiring mind, is willing to do a little work and learn something.... and understand what I am saying!

1) Drying the connector: YES! 100% or more likely 91% alcohol which is much more common and much cheaper works great. and drys much faster, 9% water vs 30 % water goes away pretty fast.
Using a hair dryer (on low heat) would work, but what would work faster is just "wind in a can" pointed directly into the cable slot, for just a few seconds would have done the job.

2) "and also the side that connects to a long thin board that runs the full length of the top of the TV"
To prevent confusion :
[LCD = Liquid Crystal Display]
{LED = Light Emitting Diode]

There IS NO "DRIVER BOARD" FOR THE LCD SCREEN! That long thin board that runs the length of the screen is just to distribute the traces to the LCD pixels which take virtually no power to make them work. Just a small voltage. So no need for a driver board. Just the low voltage out from the TCON, to drive the LCD pixels. You will see no high power components on the TC board cause the LCD screen uses TINY, TINY amounts of power. You may have felt heat coming from the screen of a working LCD TV. Thats the LED BACKLIGHTS.

Yes Virginia, there IS a driver board..... but that is for the LED backlights that shine through the LCD panel so you can see the picture. A common failure for LCD TV's is that LED backlight driver board, that puts out about 90-100-something Vdc, depending on the # of LEDS. Each LED takes about 3Vdc, so the power supply puts out 3(volts) Times the number of LED's, which is generally determined by the screen size. If 1 LED dies, they all go out. My own TV that went bad, (no picture) needed the LED backlight strips replaced, because my TV had a couple bad LED's
So I replaced them all. It's a big job, and the LCD panel is SO thin, and made of glass.

"there a good chance that the panel was already the issue right from the start" NEIN! NADA! NYET! And in spanish NO! and in english, NO!
I have not seen a LCD panel go bad yet, without being physically damaged. And when they do break, the TCON boards are still OK.

The most important issue.... GROUNDING LIKE THIS

THAT DRAWING REALLY IS TOO COMPLICATED, THOUGH OPTIMAL.

JUST MAKE A CABLE THAT CONNECTS TO CHASSIS GROUND ON THE TV, AND USE A WRIST STRAP, (BUY ON EBAY FOR A FEW BUCKS), THAT HAS THE RESISTOR TO GROUND ON A POWER OUTLET. YOU AND THE TV, and any circuit board, MUST BE AT THE SAME VOLTAGE (GROUND) AT ALL TIMES TO PREVENT DAMAGE. Never open a part package till you are strapped to your ground system, the physical size (wattage) of the resistor is irrelevant, it's the resistance that matters, 1/2 to 1 meg-ohm or 500K to 100,000K. ORDER AT SAME TIME AS WRIST STRAP.

Hope this helps. Just replace TC board first, if no joy, you will need the main board as well. The rest of the TV should be fine.
Beauford.
 
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gibbsy09

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Thanks it's good to have someone help, that isn't condescending and genuinely wants to help, I got all that, the only part I never understood, was this statement (Yes Virginia, there IS a driver board..... but that is for the LED backlights).

What is Virginia lol, So I only see 4 boards the long thin one I spoke about earlier, then the TCON, MAIN, and the PSU board, so I'm assuming the led driver board you mentioned can't be seen and is between the metal chassis and the LCD screen, so you don't think its possible I've blown that long thin board so that's good, cause that can't be changed I don't think, I've gone ahead and ordered the TCON board, it's used but the seller said it's in good working order and came from a TV with a broken screen.

This is my plan for grounding myself to the TV from now on.

1) plug tv cable into TV, then plug the cable into the mains wall socket, then turn mains switch to off, most important part lol, then clip my wrist strap to the metal chassis, then I should be all good and grounded hopefully do you agree.


Just to let you into a secret because I don't think you will judge lol, this TV wasn't mine, a few days ago, I seen it on Facebook selling for £30 and the fault was the thick black vertical line as I mentioned, I knew it was a 2018 model, I had already read that a common issue with these LCD TV's was the TCON and they sold fairly cheap, so I thought why not it's worth a punt so i bought it in the view of fixing it, my sister thought i was daft lol, my TV a 42" 14 year old acoustic solutions, was on the blink, and zero chance of spare parts to fix, and the company went bust years ago lol so why not.

Lastly before I put in my replacement TCON, should I do that thing I mentioned with the hair dryer just as a precaution to be sure? or will the water have evaporated by now? unfortunately I don't have any means to blow it with air, so the hair dryer is my best solution.
Again thanks for all the help and tips so far.
 

BEAUFORD_SAVAGE

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You have never heard the line, "Yes Virginia, there IS a Santa Claus!" ??? If you give a crap, you can google it.

As for the LED Back light drivers, they are on either the power supply board, (Very common) or possibly the main board, (less common).
Sometimes they do have their own board. (not in your case)

This brings me to a point, As you can imagine, it can be very helpful to see a picture(s) of the back of your TV, so I can direct you better, and get a better feel for what
is there that you are working on as all TV's are built differently.

"1) plug tv cable into TV, then plug the cable into the mains wall socket, then turn mains switch to off, most important part lol, then clip my wrist strap to the metal chassis, then I should be all good and grounded hopefully do you agree. "

That's overly complicated. You can do those in any order. Also the power to the TV is NEVER not connected, (unless unplugged) because the switch does not cut the AC power going to the inside of the TV, (It's a sleep button) When you have a remote control to turn on the TV, the TV must have power, so it's "eye" can see the light from the remote, and then take the processor out of sleep mode, and turn on the backlights. So whether the TV is powered up or not, it is connected to, and using 110Vac.

That said, the chassis is supposed to be connected to the neutral side of the outlet, which in actuality, In the Fusebox,--- ground and neutral are connected to the SAME grounding buss, that connects to a water main, which is in the real earth GROUND dirt. And if your house is wired right, the bigger pin on the outlet is at the same potential as the ground pin.. But for safety sake we connect to the ground pin anyway. USUALLY the outlet box screw is also connected to the same ground pin. So we connect to that for the wrist strap. The chassis metal frame should have a ground wire connected, as well as your wrist strap to that screw.

Put more simply, Two ground wires, one to the TV chassis, one wire to your wrist strap, but that one has a 1 Meg ohm resistor in series to the ground screw. I won't explain why, but it IS important though.

If there was a wiring error, there would be a BIG spark when you clip the ground lead to the chassis, when the TV is plugged in. If there is no big flash, your safe to connect yourself to ground, even when the TV is plugged in. And it's safe to grab the metal frame. But most work is done with the TV unplugged, unless you need it on for troubleshooting a live TV. And this I do all the time.

Whether the TV is plugged in or not, the chassis and you need to be connected to ground. And you can safely replace circuit boards with no static damage.
__
"1) plug tv cable into TV, then plug the cable into the mains wall socket, then turn mains switch to off, most important part lol, then clip my wrist strap to the metal chassis, then I should be all good and grounded hopefully do you agree.
"


NO!

The mains switch is NEVER OFF. (Unless you mean main at the fusebox, and that is unnecessary.)
So NO, I do not agree with this, as when you are replacing parts, (Your TCON board) there are still voltages ON in the TV. It must remain unplugged when changing boards.

I apologize if I am man-splaining, I just want you to keep your oxygen addiction, and your TV alive too.


Last part, I don't judge, I would have gotten the TV too! It WAS the TCON only, before somebody messed it up a bit more. If only we knew who? :p
Yeah, I think the connector is dry by now. It can't hurt to warm it up with the hair dryer ON LOW, or don't get too close.
And lastly I appreciate your consideration for the work I have put in to help. Work slowly, and think things out before each move.
If a question pops up, feel free to ask, I will keep my eyes on this thread.
Your welcome! And good luck!
 
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gibbsy09

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Hi thanks again, so kind of know what you mean about using a cable from the mains to the TV, unfortunately I don't have a flex that long, but I looked on YouTube and this guy said use a laptop charging pin as it is a grounding pin, so no more plugging the TV in and frying myself, so I just plug the laptop charger into the mains, then connect the pin to the TV chassis with a clip, and lastly clip my wrist strap to the chassis, NOTE the guy was working on a PC NOT A TV, would this be good and safe,Thanks.
 

BEAUFORD_SAVAGE

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As long as you are talking about a cable that is just from the AC side, yes, it will work fine, the output side is not a true ground. It's not connected to ground at all actually.
You could use ANY 3 pin AC cord, like a desktop computer cord, clip off the end, cut back the hot and neutral wires, and just use the ground wire. That would make for a good solid connection to ground. I should have thought of that. it would help if you had "Aligator clips" , but any way you make a good connection will do.
 

gibbsy09

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As long as you are talking about a cable that is just from the AC side, yes, it will work fine, the output side is not a true ground. It's not connected to ground at all actually.
You could use ANY 3 pin AC cord, like a desktop computer cord, clip off the end, cut back the hot and neutral wires, and just use the ground wire. That would make for a good solid connection to ground. I should have thought of that. it would help if you had "Aligator clips" , but any way you make a good connection
Thanks remember what you said before about a picture, I would send a picture of the cable so you knew exactly what I was talking about, but I'm not sure you can send pictures on here, I don't see any obvious way to send it. Because you use different currents I think and the guy on the YouTube video was from the USA also, so just want to see if it's safe over here to use as well.
In fact I just thought heres the link if you don't mind looking.
View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mOZTcDTyZmU&t=83s
 
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BEAUFORD_SAVAGE

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I think we are both guilty of belaboring the the subject at this point.
Yes your computer case is at ground potential as well.... however, when you start going through a cable to your USB port.
which has a cable to your motherboard, which has a cable to the wall, which has a cable to the ACTUAL ground at your power mains
in your house........... I think you are adding to many possible breaks in connection, and potentially damaging the computer you are using as a ground.
Is it likely to damage your computer, not really, but there is something us engineers know as Ground Loops, that I won't get into. Lets put it this way,
I FOR ONE am not going to risk even the small chance of damaging my computer due to a EMP, or ground loop issue at the time of a static discharge on my USB port.
I almost just explained one reason why it could be dangerous, easier to say ...trust me.

Lets finish this topic with one 4 word sentence.
USE THE WALL GROUND
 

gibbsy09

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I'm sorry I didn't want to drag this out either and keep bugging you lol, though I think we've got our wires crossed no pun, I've no intention of using my PC, the video was just to show you what cable it was, I'm going to use that cable from the wall ground, clip it to the TV chassis, then clip my wrist strap on to the chassis, and that's it, would that not safely ground my TV? Thanks.
 

BEAUFORD_SAVAGE

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Don't get me wrong I'm not angry, I just thought we had this covered.
But no, the end of a charging DC cable is not necessarily ground. The output could be what is known as a "Floating ground"
Which means it is isolated from the actual ground, and there is no connection to earth ground at all. It depends on the type of supply.
I'm not willing to gamble on what type it is.
But what you just said ", I'm going to use that cable from the wall ground, clip it to the TV chassis, then clip my wrist strap on to the chassis, and that's it, would that not safely ground my TV? " Yes, that is completely acceptable. Do you have , or are you getting the resistor I mentioned for your wrist strap?
It is important for the safety of your electronics. Like I said before the physical size is not important (wattage) it's the amount of resistance that matters. 500,000 to 1 million Ohms.
Without that, you are still endangering your electronics.
Sounds goofy, but it's true. Ask any local repair shop if they can sell you one. It's worth about 1 penny, they may just give it to you free. WHAT THE RESISTOR SHOULD LOOK LIKE
You only need one for the wrist strap only, and it can look like ANY of those. You just need a way to keep it from bending around till it breaks.
I am fine if you have any questions on this.
 

gibbsy09

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Hi just an update, not blew myself up yet lol, changed out the TCON board good news the blank screen is fixed, bad news back to square one, still got big black vertical line up the centre and a thin one just to the left of it, so not the TCON board, I said I wasn't going to go chasing boards, but its bugging me, don't know if it means something but there is the power button and it is connected to the main board, read that if you hold the power button in for a few seconds the TV will switch off, mines doesn't I can only switch it off with the remote, but it's still in standby.

So don't know maybe its stuck on a timer or something, but you would think if you hold the power button for long enough it would switch off, might be nothing, but only mentioning it because it could be a sign the main board has a fault, anyway your the expert, is it a toss up between the two I either change out the main board, or the PSU board, what you think? or could it indeed be the panel is broken, I'll await your reply, Thanks.
Side note if I could send in a picture it would give you an idea what it looks like, can it be done on here?
 

BEAUFORD_SAVAGE

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gibbsy09

Well, we know you did blow the Tcon!, But the original problem is still there. SOOOOO
That pretty much leaves possible , damage to the Cables going to the LCD panel.
It is possible the TV had damaged connections before you got it, making it look like the TC.
You have no way to test that. That will remain an unknown unless you get the Main Board.

Here would be MY plan, get the main board. Install it, and if it fixes the problem, then you are done.
If it does not, you can get back your money by selling it on EBay with a clear conscience. cause you know it works right.
If that happens you have a damaged LCD panel or wiring, which is not repairable.
If you do ship a board, use what the main board came in cause it's ESD safe.
We have gone as far as we can, you have some decisions to make. What is above really are your only options, so we have leaned a lot.
(I will see if you post again) Good luck!
Beuford
 

gibbsy09

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Thanks ok, so it could be damaged cables or LCD panel, so not to nit pick lol but you did say in an earlier post that there was practically no chance it could be the panel, so I except cables or wiring, but I did have hope when you said it wouldn't be the panel, though I'm not pointing any fingers because I appreciate all the help you have given me so far, so your next move would be the main board, so the PSU is nothing to do with the picture then is that correct? so no point in changing it because it performs different functions not associated with my problem is that also correct? Thanks.

If you don't mind also could you give me a little run down of what functions the main board performs, meaning could it be behind the faulty picture, I know it has a processor and what not, but I'm guessing that kicks in when the TV is fully running, not trying to be pessimistic, but I'm thinking panel, as the replacement TCON fixed nothing, but I'm still willing to try.
 
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BEAUFORD_SAVAGE

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I stand by what I originally said RE: The LCD panel.
The reason I said no reason to believe it was not the panel, was that you eluded to no physical damage to the TV.
It seemed VERY much like a TCon board issue, and I personally have never seen in all my years a LCD screen go bad,
without physical damage to the screen. So I really do not think the LCD screen itself is bad at all. I am separating the LCD panel
from the connections themselves. There COULD be some connection at the LCD, (not a connector) damage, but I still really doubt that is the case as well.
It's the TCON board that processes the signals from your main board into the picture you see. And the TCON has always in my experience been the cause of the
type of image you are seeing.
But since we have ruled out the TC board, there is what comes to the TC, and what goes out of it. Here is the only reason I mentioned not the LCD screen but connections to it.
Because I have not yet seen this TV, and I don't know it's history. Maybe it had a long move in it's life that generated significant vibration, that does not show any damage,
but did some damage to the tiny delicate connections that connect the screen, from the distribution board. I suggest you DO NOT go trying to inspect that, as a brain surgeon would be more likely to do more harm than good getting into that very delicate area of connections to the LCD panel. I'm not kidding in any way here.

In my opinion, it is still far more likely to be the main board feeding the TC bad data. This is based on NEW INFO, we did not have prior to changing the TC board (2nd time... correctly.)
In hindsight, I would have not done a thing different than you, (minus the lack of ESD [anti-static ] precautions, and leaving the TC board with probable liquid in it's connectors.
So no, I have not changed my mind one bit. Excepting some new info. That is fair is it not?
With the info at hand, I would put my money toward the main board, as they are far more common to become defective. than the other options.

Hopefully you are following my logic here. Can I be 100% certain? Hell no. But in your shoes, I would have done, TC, and now Main board. Just like I am suggesting to you.
It is your TV, and you call the shots ultimately. I think I have done right by you to date, and explained myself well.
The next move is yours. If it does turn out to be the unlikely connector damage, as long as you don't do anything with the LCD panel connections, you can still sell both boards, with a clear conscience.

RE: "the PSU is nothing to do with the picture then is that correct? so no point in changing it because it performs different functions not associated with my problem is that also correct? "
That one I can say with 100% certainty, correct. And you could sell ALL boards in that TV on the slim chance the Main board does not fix it.
-Beauford
 

gibbsy09

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Hi glad to know your still there lol, because I hadn't heard from you, over the weekend I decided to ask a repair shop for an opinion, the guy was helpful and asked me to send a pic of the fault to WhatsApp, he took a while answering so I bugged him again, he told me he was consulting a colleague, he finally got back and said it was the yellow ribbon tabs that connect to the LCD, and there was a bad connection somewhere or damage, he sent me a pic and the arrows showed where it was just a random pick of some board, but looked same set up as mine.

So that does coincide with what you say about it had a rough ride in transit at some point in it's life, looking at the connections they look fine, but they are fine connections, so I suppose it could be anywhere. so I'm going to share that pick with you if I've figured out imgur lol. It's one single pick in the url, I'm also sending pics of the layout of my TV, board, by board, I know you know the layout of these TV'S but I just thought I'd share, I'm also including the pic, that is causing all this hassle the vertical lines, in all there glory, and it let's you see the fault, that url will have five pics I think, cheers.

1) View: https://i.imgur.com/95eSPiD.jpg


2) View: https://i.imgur.com/OCRF2Fq.jpg

Lol don't think I've mastered imgur yet, the five pics were all together and I copied the url, but it just seems to show one pick out of the five, so I must need a separate url for each pic I guess, if you want to see the other four just let me know and I'll create a url for each, I'm not familiar with imgur, but you probably guessed that lol.
 
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BEAUFORD_SAVAGE

Notable
Sep 6, 2020
237
25
890
6
Yep makes sense. It looks like your TV is manufactured different than the ones I have seen, where the connections in that area are not able to be disconnected.
You do need to be very careful,and not flex the connectors any more than necessary, and the connections at the LCD panel are mostly non removable as well .
It's a delicate area, I know that,
This is an example of doing long distance repair, where when I cannot see the TV, it's is far less than optimal.
I had images in my head of everything being hard wired, no connectors except at the TCON connectors.
Otherwise this would have gone far faster, and with less hassle. From now on I'm going to ask for more pictures or even videos.

But I can tell you now there will be some push-back on that. People have a tendency (This I know from uncountable questions, even those face to face),
where people think if your competent, them just telling you the symptoms, you should be able to trouble shoot anything sight unseen. When the truth is there are
a near infinite list of symptoms that can go be caused by a whole truckload of different components/ issues. SOME people get that, most don't.
That's when I am EYEROLL

Imgur is pretty easy. You may need to make an account to post I think, I'm not sure on that one. I do have an account with them.
Glad your making progress.
 
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gibbsy09

Prominent
Sep 30, 2020
13
0
560
0
Yep makes sense. It looks like your TV is manufactured different than the ones I have seen, where the connections in that area are not able to be disconnected.
You do need to be very careful,and not flex the connectors any more than necessary, and the connections at the LCD panel are mostly non removable as well .
It's a delicate area, I know that,
This is an example of doing long distance repair, where when I cannot see the TV, it's is far less than optimal.
I had images in my head of everything being hard wired, no connectors except at the TCON connectors.

Imgur is pretty easy. You may need to make an account to post I think, I'm not sure on that one. I do have an account with them.
Glad your making progress.
No probs did you get to see the 5 pics or just the one with vertical line, and the one sent from the repair shop, if you didn't mines is similar I have that big long thin board and all those ribbon tabs connecting, I think alot of the TV's are made this way now, and those ribbons could get disconnected anytime and it will happen with alot of TV's just my opinion though no expert lol.

So do you think now no point and going for a main board? Probably just waste my money, Thanks.
Just adding this, so do you think that long thin board could indeed be the driver board for the LCD, but you can't find it if you Google it because it's not replaceable?
 
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