Replacing/Repairing Dying Speakers

neutropia

Commendable
Jul 29, 2016
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1,510
I'm sorry if this is not the proper forum but I have 2 full range speakers on an old (1996) Sony receiver using SS-AV22 speakers. Both speakers have developed a pronounced "rattling" whenever bass is coming from them and I'm not too savvy when it comes to audio. I also can't seem to find any stores in my area that do repairs (22303 zip) that aren't big box and probably expensive retailers. I did check for tears in the cone and couldn't locate anything. I also didn't see any rubber to replace; there's just a sort of felt lining around the edges that started snapping off in places as I was prodding the cone to see if it made noises when i pressed on it. It does make a bit of a "scraping" noise when I push if I don't push it straight down. I'm unsure if this is normal or part of my issue.

I do see that it appears I can maybe buy speakers to replace the dying ones but I have no clue what would need to be bought. I know this is a very vague thread but what are my options in regards to repairing or outright replacing the woofer in the speakers? The tweeters seem to function just fine. I didn't want to include pictures unless I knew what people would need to see so I can provide as requested.

Thank you all in advance!
 
Solution
Naw, your AMP is going to be the determiner. If the receiver wasn't able to blow 100W speakers, it won't be able to blow 150W speakers. You basically will have a higher volume potential. Peak numbers are always fluffed anyway.

Ohms are a similar deal... lower resistance means bigger pipe, and again it boils down to the receiver/AMP. You'll actually want to stick to the same impedance or higher. If you went down to a 4 Ohm set it would make your amp/receiver work a bit of over time, like a pump trying to push water through a much larger pipe than it was designed for - pump could do it but might burn out eventually. If your receiver is rated for 4 ohms, or mentions 4 ohms anywhere on it, then by all means, but 4 ohm stuff is...

greens

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Jan 27, 2012
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Speakers eventually go bad. Sounds like yours would pass a test, as they do function, just not to your liking.

It could help to rewire them, but that might just be a big waste of time.

http://rudn.nodevice.com/preview/big/205/205952-2.jpg
http://rudn.nodevice.com/preview/big/205/205952-1.jpg

They are EXTREMELY simple, all speakers are really. You could just buy something called a component set, if you'd like to do it yourself. you would need a component set with 6.5" speakers and 2" tweeters to fit without a problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Audio-TQ60C-Injection-Component/dp/B002QUZHX2/ref=sr_1_2?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1483548932&sr=1-2&keywords=2%22+tweeter

Something like that would do it. Can't speak on their sound or quality, but shoot for the price it would be a fun weekend project.
 

neutropia

Commendable
Jul 29, 2016
3
0
1,510
That's a good starting point, thank you. I have a barrage of follow up questions so bear with me:

1) I notice on the second image it mentions a 100W maximum and the link provided is a 150W peak system. Would I need to find one specifically rated at 100W or less or am I looking only at the continuous watts? (the receiver itself is rarely ever above 50% volume)

2) Do I need to worry about keeping the ohms below the 6 listed under impedance?

3) What if I only utilize a 6" speaker that matches the specifications from the previous 2 questions? As the higher ranges work with no issues, would that function as well or do I need a speaker that is specifically a woofer paired with a tweeter?



 

greens

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Jan 27, 2012
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Naw, your AMP is going to be the determiner. If the receiver wasn't able to blow 100W speakers, it won't be able to blow 150W speakers. You basically will have a higher volume potential. Peak numbers are always fluffed anyway.

Ohms are a similar deal... lower resistance means bigger pipe, and again it boils down to the receiver/AMP. You'll actually want to stick to the same impedance or higher. If you went down to a 4 Ohm set it would make your amp/receiver work a bit of over time, like a pump trying to push water through a much larger pipe than it was designed for - pump could do it but might burn out eventually. If your receiver is rated for 4 ohms, or mentions 4 ohms anywhere on it, then by all means, but 4 ohm stuff is usually a bit $$$ for me.

In one of the links there is a small circuit diagram showing that the tweeter has... something... before the source gets there. It has to be some kind of crossover. The crossover eliminates the bass before it gets to the tweeters. (that is what the small boxes you see included with component sets do) (also worth noting that a lot of crossovers also get rid of the highs so the larger speakers can focus on bass/mids) You CAN mix and match speakers, tweeters, and crossovers, but there are a few things to consider.

In your case, replacing only the full range 6" would mean you don't need to worry about the crossover, or anything like that, and just get another "full range" 6" speaker. (Looks like it is actually 6.5")

If you replaced the tweeters as well, you'd need to worry a bit more as the "crossover" might send a different range of frequencies to the tweeter than it was designed to handle. In that case you would want to make sure you confirmed the frequency range on the tweeters, or use the new crossover.

You can see that in the wiring diagram the larger speakers actually get the source sound unaltered, where as component sets have the highs filtered out for the large speakers, relying on just the tweeters for highs.

All that said... I think you might be right. Get a pair of "full range" 6.5" speakers, and just swap those out. Soldering up the connections to eliminate corrosion or loose wires as a potential culprit and secure them for a few more decades. That would be the easiest, and probably keep the sound as close as possible to original.
 
Solution