Suggestions to connect Vizio soundbar with my projector

[crypticlight]

Hello everyone,

I have a 3D projector (Optoma GT1080) and Vizio soundbar 5.1 audio system (SB3851-D0), and I use Chromecast to cast a lot of content. I have been exploring different options to get best out of this setup given following I/O on each device:

Optoma GT1080:

2 x HDMI (1.4a 3D support) + MHL v1.2
Audio Out 3.5mm
12V trigger
3D-Sync
USB service

Vizio SB3851-D0:

Analog Audio Input - 3.5mm stereo mini jack
Digital Audio Input - RCA (Coaxial / SPDIF)
Digital Audio Input - Optical (Toslink)
USB Input - USB (for .WAV Audio Playback)
HDMI Input - HDMI
Output 1 - HDMI ARC

Currently, I have them setup as Chromecast connected to projector on HDMI port. And Soundbar connected to projector through 3.5mm analog audio.

Now, I have 2 questions:

Is there a better way to connect these without spending a lot.. may be like $50-60 to add a converter/extractor?
If I understand correctly, current setup sends 2CH audio to the soundbar, however, soundbar does some processing to provide surround sound experience. How do I tell the difference between this processed 5.1 vs real 5.1?

Thanks.

 

[krish_76]

the wiring set up seems perfect.

I've never used roku but is there a setting in it to tell it to enable 5.1? I'm also not sure how good those utube videos are to test a receiver.

If it were me ... and i wanted to test the receiver - I would plug something that I had a bit more control over into the hdmi input of the receiver. Do you have for instance, a laptop with hdmi out, or a blu ray player or a dvd player with hdmi out?

I think i was just being paranoid.. played some better videos from laptop and it works great. The ones that don't are probably just stereo anyways.

However, i am thinking of a slight set up change now. I plan to get a 2 to 1 switch to input my laptop and roku, this way i will have the input selector switch right by the projector/couch. The o/p this which will go to a 1 to 2 splitter. One will go to hdmi in of the projector (for the video) and other to hdmi in/ARC of soundbar (for audio).I am hoping that this would work,any flaws? Might need to mute the projector though so that i get the sound out of vizio only

 

[robert600]

good about the videos ...play one with 5.1 DTS and the sound should be very good,

Thinking of the 2 to 1 switch - that seems a good idea (I might be inclined to get a 3 to 1 in case you decide to get a blu ray player at some point) ... I'm confused though about the need for a 1 to 2 splitter - I mean the hdmi out of the visio will pass the video of whichever source the 2 to 1 switch is selected for to the projector.

 

[crypticlight]

Yeah, robert600 is right. You just need a hdmi switch, not splitter. Output of switch goes to hdmi in of soundbar and rest all remains same.

Also, if you don't already know, this soundbar tells you if the audio it's receiving is 5.1. If it is, as soon as you play the video, 2 LEDS in the bottom most row will glow white momentarily. There are more indicators and all of them are explained in user manual. However, I realized that this indicator doesn't work when you use laptop even after doing right audio settings on your laptop. So, I used chromecast to cast videos from Netflix which I knew were 5.1 and that indicator came up.

My recommendation would be to test Dolby Atmos demos on Vudu, the sorround effect you get is mind blowing. You don't need subscription to play them.

 

[krish_76]

good about the videos ...play one with 5.1 DTS and the sound should be very good,

Thinking of the 2 to 1 switch - that seems a good idea (I might be inclined to get a 3 to 1 in case you decide to get a blu ray player at some point) ... I'm confused though about the need for a 1 to 2 splitter - I mean the hdmi out of the visio will pass the video of whichever source the 2 to 1 switch is selected for to the projector.

Ok, Let me explain. so, what you have mentioned is my current set up and same as crypticlight with the roku streaming device. Now if i need to connect my laptop/desktop (which is in the bedroom) i will have to take another 30ft or so hdmi behind the couch across the living room into the HDMI switch which will be near the SB. So, every time i need to switch i need to do it near the SB. I can bring this whole set up near the couch (and by the projector) but i still need to then run around 20 ft from switch to SB HDMI IN. note that the additional HDMI across the living room from ARC of SB to the projector still remains.

Instead, I thought of doing the switch near my projector which is just by the couch so anyone can do it seating at the couch. so, i just take a 6 ft hdmi (for laptop) and the roku device (its a streaming stick) so goes directly into hdmi port, i plug both into the 2*1 which then goes to a 1*2 split. The one o/p of this goes to HDMI in of projector and other to HDMI in of the soundbar. I do not use the SB ARC at all. So, instead of a 30 ft hdmi and then another 10 ft or so ARC from SB to projector and having to make the switch near the SB, I now have just one 20ft ft cable running for the 1*2 slitter to HDMI in of the SB.

Let me know if this make any sense at all?

 

[krish_76]

Yeah, robert600 is right. You just need a hdmi switch, not splitter. Output of switch goes to hdmi in of soundbar and rest all remains same.

Also, if you don't already know, this soundbar tells you if the audio it's receiving is 5.1. If it is, as soon as you play the video, 2 LEDS in the bottom most row will glow white momentarily. There are more indicators and all of them are explained in user manual. However, I realized that this indicator doesn't work when you use laptop even after doing right audio settings on your laptop. So, I used chromecast to cast videos from Netflix which I knew were 5.1 and that indicator came up.

My recommendation would be to test Dolby Atmos demos on Vudu, the sorround effect you get is mind blowing. You don't need subscription to play them.

Thanks. Replied to robert. I'll try these suggestions and watch out for the 2 LED's to light up.

 

[crypticlight]

Ok, Let me explain. so, what you have mentioned is my current set up and same as crypticlight with the roku streaming device. Now if i need to connect my laptop/desktop (which is in the bedroom) i will have to take another 30ft or so hdmi behind the couch across the living room into the HDMI switch which will be near the SB. So, every time i need to switch i need to do it near the SB. I can bring this whole set up near the couch (and by the projector) but i still need to then run around 20 ft from switch to SB HDMI IN. note that the additional HDMI across the living room from ARC of SB to the projector still remains.

Instead, I thought of doing the switch near my projector which is just by the couch so anyone can do it seating at the couch. so, i just take a 6 ft hdmi (for laptop) and the roku device (its a streaming stick) so goes directly into hdmi port, i plug both into the 2*1 which then goes to a 1*2 split. The one o/p of this goes to HDMI in of projector and other to HDMI in of the soundbar. I do not use the SB ARC at all. So, instead of a 30 ft hdmi and then another 10 ft or so ARC from SB to projector and having to make the switch near the SB, I now have just one 20ft ft cable running for the 1*2 slitter to HDMI in of the SB.

Let me know if this make any sense at all?

Sorry, I could not really follow the entire thing about location of different devices. But seems like you have projector pretty close to your couch and you want to keep switch next to it too. Given that, your setup sounds fine.

However, if I had to do same thing, I would have skipped splitter and instead used 2 20ft HDMI cables, one for connecting HDMI OUT of switcher to HDMI IN of SB and other to connect HDMI ARC of SB to HDMI IN of projector. The only reason I would do this is to use minimum number of processing devices in the whole setup to keep it simple and unprocessed as much as possible. But your method is fine too.

I also have multiple cables running between projector and SB but I use a wire concealer strip to hide them.

 

[robert600]

This one box should do all you want. It supports 3D and will do 4k - so it's future proof. If you decide to use separate switcher / splitter boxes ... make sure they both support 3D. That's a nice feature of your projector and you wouldn't want to lose that.

http/www.ebay.com/itm/RadioShack-3-In-2-Out-HDMI-Matrix-Selector-w-Remote-4K-Ultra-HD-3D-Capable-1080P-/182702692108?hash=item2a89edd70c:g:1ecAAOSwGrFZhUHF

 

[krish_76]

Ok, Let me explain. so, what you have mentioned is my current set up and same as crypticlight with the roku streaming device. Now if i need to connect my laptop/desktop (which is in the bedroom) i will have to take another 30ft or so hdmi behind the couch across the living room into the HDMI switch which will be near the SB. So, every time i need to switch i need to do it near the SB. I can bring this whole set up near the couch (and by the projector) but i still need to then run around 20 ft from switch to SB HDMI IN. note that the additional HDMI across the living room from ARC of SB to the projector still remains.

Instead, I thought of doing the switch near my projector which is just by the couch so anyone can do it seating at the couch. so, i just take a 6 ft hdmi (for laptop) and the roku device (its a streaming stick) so goes directly into hdmi port, i plug both into the 2*1 which then goes to a 1*2 split. The one o/p of this goes to HDMI in of projector and other to HDMI in of the soundbar. I do not use the SB ARC at all. So, instead of a 30 ft hdmi and then another 10 ft or so ARC from SB to projector and having to make the switch near the SB, I now have just one 20ft ft cable running for the 1*2 slitter to HDMI in of the SB.

Let me know if this make any sense at all?

Sorry, I could not really follow the entire thing about location of different devices. But seems like you have projector pretty close to your couch and you want to keep switch next to it too. Given that, your setup sounds fine.

However, if I had to do same thing, I would have skipped splitter and instead used 2 20ft HDMI cables, one for connecting HDMI OUT of switcher to HDMI IN of SB and other to connect HDMI ARC of SB to HDMI IN of projector. The only reason I would do this is to use minimum number of processing devices in the whole setup to keep it simple and unprocessed as much as possible. But your method is fine too.

I also have multiple cables running between projector and SB but I use a wire concealer strip to hide them.

Are you saying that plugging roku in SB is better than running it via splitter and switch.. Btw see below for my set up .. The first one is as is now with 2 long hdmi..

https/drive.google.com/file/d/0B6on_H_QKpltMzBtbTNndzlXd3M/view?usp=sharing

Whereas this requires just 1 and i also get tp have the switch near me.
https/drive.google.com/file/d/0B6on_H_QKpltZGRFT1huNnZOUFk/view?usp=sharing

 

[krish_76]

This one box should do all you want. It supports 3D and will do 4k - so it's future proof. If you decide to use separate switcher / splitter boxes ... make sure they both support 3D. That's a nice feature of your projector and you wouldn't want to lose that.

http/www.ebay.com/itm/RadioShack-3-In-2-Out-HDMI-Matrix-Selector-w-Remote-4K-Ultra-HD-3D-Capable-1080P-/182702692108?hash=item2a89edd70c:g:1ecAAOSwGrFZhUHF

I guess i will need two of these, One to switch initially and other to split to SB and Projector. see my proposed set up below
https/drive.google.com/file/d/0B6on_H_QKpltZGRFT1huNnZOUFk/view

 

[robert600]

I think you only need one. It accepts 3 inputs (roku, laptop, spare (for future blu ray etc.)) and has 2 outputs (projector, SB). The inputs can be switched either at the box itself or via remote.