Day 2 compleat and only one blister. (Ben)

[Ben]

Archived from groups: alt.video.satellite.4dtv (More info?)

The cable that runs to the motor that turns the dish.

My new cable has the following colors-
Two large: Red and Black
Three small: Yellow, Brown and Blue
And a grounding wire.

The old cable had the following colors-
Two large: White and Red
Three small: Orange, Brown and Green
And a grounding wire.

Inside the motor pannel the hookup says to place the following colors on the
following posts.
Motor: White and Green
Sensor: Black and Shield

I'm quite sure, nomatter the color I need to have the two large wires
attached to the Motor posts.
But when it says to put Black and Shield on the Sensor post, I'm not to sure
I should be hooking up the un-insulated ground wire to this post or not. The
old cabe had the thin Orange wire conected there.

Question 2
My feedhorn does not have a plastic cap over the end (pointing at the dish).
Should I get one? What's this part called?

Question 3
I can see that my feedhorn is not pointing straight at the bottom of the
dish. I saw in an article there's a cap that attaches to the end pointing at
the dish with a telescopic pole that extends to help aim. Is there a better
way to point the horn? If this cap is the èa'ª way, where might I buy one?
(can't find one on eBay)

~Ben

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.video.satellite.4dtv (More info?)

> Question 3
> I can see that my feedhorn is not pointing straight at the bottom of the
> dish. I saw in an article there's a cap that attaches to the end pointing
at
> the dish with a telescopic pole that extends to help aim. Is there a
better
> way to point the horn? If this cap is the èa'ª way, where might I buy one?
> (can't find one on eBay)

The accepted method is to measure from the outside edge of the feedhorn
scalar ring to the outside edge of the dish. It will also insure feedhorn
centering.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.video.satellite.4dtv (More info?)

If the meter is in front of the dish that can happen. If you use long cables
for the meter and place the meter a few feet below the dish or place it
behind the dish the problem goes away.


"Greg O." <ozbirn@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:KXgOc.3592$jY3.1943@newssvr32.news.prodigy.com...
| Looks good.
|
| The meter you have shown, labeled "Satellite Finder", looks like one I
| recently bought at Fry's and had to return because I could not get it to
| work right. It would peg at 10 no matter which way I moved the dish and
| regardless of the sensitivity setting. Maybe it was broken, I'm not sure,
| but if you have success with it let me know.
|
| Greg O.
|
| "Ben" <none@none.moc> wrote in message
| news:FZXMc.6772$Nu4.5528@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
| > Things are going great thanks to;
| > scram, Valdivar, DRLev and others.
| >
| > Here's the link to day by day photos of my first attempt at installing a
| > C-Band system.
| > http/BigDish.notlong.com
| >
| > ~Ben
| >
| >
| >
|
|

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.video.satellite.4dtv (More info?)

Again for the actuator see http/www.21st-satellite.com/tvro_cables.html .
The section marked M discusses the actuator connections. If there is a
bare braided wire in the actuator bundle connect it to the ground lug on
the receiver and do not connect the braided wire to anything on the actuator.

The opening in the feedhorn throat should be aimed at the center of the dish.

The plastic cover prevents wasps or other insects from nesting inside the
throat of the feedhorn. Many people call it a "Hornet Cover" or "Throat
Cover" I would suggest that you use one.

If the feedhorn is a Chaparral see http/www.skyvision.com/store/mi3503021.html
Other covers may be found at http/www.skyvision.com/store/feedhorns.html#85
SkyVision sometime charges a lot for shipping. Check the shipping and handling
charges before ordering from them. Somebody else may know of another source
for the covers.








"Ben" <none@none.moc> wrote in message
news:Y6hOc.20528$PK5.14978@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
| The cable that runs to the motor that turns the dish.
|
| My new cable has the following colors-
| Two large: Red and Black
| Three small: Yellow, Brown and Blue
| And a grounding wire.
|
| The old cable had the following colors-
| Two large: White and Red
| Three small: Orange, Brown and Green
| And a grounding wire.
|
| Inside the motor pannel the hookup says to place the following colors on the
| following posts.
| Motor: White and Green
| Sensor: Black and Shield
|
| I'm quite sure, nomatter the color I need to have the two large wires
| attached to the Motor posts.
| But when it says to put Black and Shield on the Sensor post, I'm not to sure
| I should be hooking up the un-insulated ground wire to this post or not. The
| old cabe had the thin Orange wire conected there.
|
| Question 2
| My feedhorn does not have a plastic cap over the end (pointing at the dish).
| Should I get one? What's this part called?
|
| Question 3
| I can see that my feedhorn is not pointing straight at the bottom of the
| dish. I saw in an article there's a cap that attaches to the end pointing at
| the dish with a telescopic pole that extends to help aim. Is there a better
| way to point the horn? If this cap is the èa'ª way, where might I buy one?
| (can't find one on eBay)
|
| ~Ben
|
|

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.video.satellite.4dtv (More info?)

Ben wrote:
> Question 2
> My feedhorn does not have a plastic cap over the end (pointing at the dish).
> Should I get one? What's this part called?

You can just try out different plastic lids from bottles until you find one
that fits. Just make sure you remove any foil-covered gaskets from inside
the lids, or else you'll have a heck of a time trying to get any signals!

> Question 3
> I can see that my feedhorn is not pointing straight at the bottom of the
> dish. I saw in an article there's a cap that attaches to the end pointing at
> the dish with a telescopic pole that extends to help aim. Is there a better
> way to point the horn? If this cap is the èa'ª way, where might I buy one?
> (can't find one on eBay)

There are various ways you can measure this. Here's one:

Run 4 strings from the center of the dish to each arm. Fasten one end of each
string to weights that hangs down behind the dish. Use a cardboard shim or
something to make sure that the strings come out from the exact middle of the
dish. Fasten the other end of each string (with the string taught) to a point
on each arm equally distant from the feed center.

Now just use a protractor (a regular one for measuring angles, not the fancy
one you got for measuring inclination) to try and make the angle between each
arm and its string the same. You'll have to manhandle the arms in order to
change the angle of the LNB. Of course, this will put differing tensions on
the strings as you do this, so that's why I suggested the weight arrangement
instead of just tying them off to the dish center. You could also get by with
just one string that you move around, but that's more work.

Once you get all 4 angles equal, the LNB should be pointing at the dish's center.

One assumption I've made is that the arms are equal length. If there are
slotted holes in the arms for the LNB or dish anchor bolts, this assumption
may not be true. Make sure the bolts are positioned evenly within the slots.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.video.satellite.4dtv (More info?)

Ben wrote:

> http/BigDish.notlong.com
>
> ~Ben
>
>

By the way, I hope you're planning on using PVC for the whole underground run of
your cable. Should help the cable last longer, and will make replacing it much
easier if you ever have a problem, or want to run more coax. You might also
consider putting a "U" piece over the end that pops up to help prevent rain from
getting inside the pipe.

 

[Ben]

Archived from groups: alt.video.satellite.4dtv (More info?)

Actually I was not going to put the rest of it in PVC. Weather is not much
of a factor here in Southern CA and having it under dirt protects it from
the Sun. The length under the dirt will be better off then the stretch going
up the side of the pole that's exposed to the Sun. I did put a right angle
piece on the top where the cable comes out so water does not go straight
down the pipe and I will be filling the end with cocking.

~Ben

"Zoyburg" <rats@attib.com> wrote in message
news:evjOc.181128$%_6.13026@attbi_s01...
> Ben wrote:
>
> > http/BigDish.notlong.com
> >
> > ~Ben
> >
> >
>
> By the way, I hope you're planning on using PVC for the whole underground
run of
> your cable. Should help the cable last longer, and will make replacing it
much
> easier if you ever have a problem, or want to run more coax. You might
also
> consider putting a "U" piece over the end that pops up to help prevent
rain from
> getting inside the pipe.