Question Laptop Instantly Shuts Off (under load, and occasionally while not)

Nov 23, 2019
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Specs:
Model:
Asus G751JT
OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit, version 10.0.18362 Build 18362
CPU: Intel i7-4720HQ
GPU: GeFore GTX 970M
PSU: Delta Electronics ADP-230EB T
Ram: 16Gb

This has been an ongoing issue for the past few months, though, it has never been as bad as it has been the past few days. My computer would occasionally immediately turn off once every week or two, but a few days ago it decided that I couldn't play games anymore, otherwise it will shut off.

Most of the time I can generally surf the web just fine, with multiple tabs on chrome open, and various low load programs such as excel, publisher, etc. Anything graphically/load intensive causes the instant shut off.

There have been times over the past couple days, however, when the instant shut-offs have happened even before getting to my desktop screen. Two nights ago, it actually shut off while just browsing Reddit, and yesterday morning, I attempted to turn my laptop on, and when I went to type my password at the log-in screen, it shut off. This happened 3-4 times, until it finally got me to the desktop. Once I was at the desktop screen, I was able to use chrome and other small programs without issue for many hours, until I decided to try to play a game, at which point it lasted a whole 60 seconds before instantly shutting off.

It is not an overheating issue as this has happened while monitoring with SpeedFan even at cold temps (~42c and below).

The computer is not running on the battery - it's plugged directly into the outlet. The battery has not been able to charge for 2-3 years, though, CPUID shows that it only has 13% wear.

Around the same time this issue started happening a few months ago, I began to hear a single audible click / pop from my A/C adapter, however, I don't believe the sound has ever happened simultaneously with a shut-off. After some research, I discovered that this sound is likely a sign of a short circuit within the adapter. I also sublease a townhouse with 31 year old electrical wiring and burnt outlets, though, I obviously don't use the burnt ones... The old wiring may also be a contributing factor due to potential surges that may have damaged the A/C adapter.

I purchased a surge protector and am receiving a new A/C adapter by mail some time tomorrow afternoon/evening. I am awaiting to find out if the new A/C adapter is the solution to my problem.


What are your thoughts?




PS, I asked r/techsupport this question and have had 0 responses in the last 3 days. Hopefully Tom's Guide is a bit more active!

Edit:
It seems that my issue may be related to this thread, which describes an issue where the laptop switches from A/C to battery power when under load. A poster in that thread mentioned that they solved that issue by replacing the DC jack on the PCB. Since my battery doesn't hold a charge, if my laptop is switching to battery power, then it would certainly cause a shut-off. I'm not sure how I could troubleshoot any of this to make a determination.
 
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Sounds tome like you have found your own answer in that other thread.

If nothing is overheating (which you already checked and would have been my first question) and it isn't going out due to running out of power (working battery, needs charge) then the information in that other thread does sound likely..

However to fix the problem mentioned there, the battery would seem to need replacing. That said, if this only happened recently, and the battery hasn't worked for years, then the battery would not be the main problem. Leaving the charger.

Before you go buying either (battery or charger) I would try an alternate charger (if you have one) and see if the problem resolves through that. If you don't have or can't borrow one, then try taking it to a local tech who can test that for you.
 
Nov 23, 2019
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Sounds tome like you have found your own answer in that other thread.

If nothing is overheating (which you already checked and would have been my first question) and it isn't going out due to running out of power (working battery, needs charge) then the information in that other thread does sound likely..

However to fix the problem mentioned there, the battery would seem to need replacing. That said, if this only happened recently, and the battery hasn't worked for years, then the battery would not be the main problem. Leaving the charger.

Before you go buying either (battery or charger) I would try an alternate charger (if you have one) and see if the problem resolves through that. If you don't have or can't borrow one, then try taking it to a local tech who can test that for you.
Thanks for the response! It's good to hear some thoughts from someone else on the issue!

Unfortunately, I didn't have access to another 230W A/C adapter, so I've actually already purchased a replacement (from Amazon, and returnable if it doesn't solve the problem), and it should be arriving some time in the next couple of hours. Here's to crossing my fingers in hopes that that's the solution to my problem...
 
Nov 23, 2019
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I just tested the new A/C adapter and had high hopes, especially after I was in game for a total of 4 minutes, which is a new record.... before it shut-off.

It seems that the A/C adapter was not the issue.
 
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Nov 23, 2019
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I am a tad confused, how exactly did you test the charger?
Hi Webworkings,

I suppose that may have come off a bit vague.

I unattached the old charger from my laptop and plugged in the new one. I used the laptop with the new charger and played a game. The issue occurred even while using the new charger. It is safe to say that the old charger was not the problem.

I intend to call several local repair shops for quotes for replacing the DC jack (model #: 90NB06F1-R10030) on the PCB, since it involves disassembling the majority of the laptop. I really don't know if that's the issue, though.
 
Nov 23, 2019
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I would, instead, consider asking what the charge for just a diagnosis. You don't want to pay to have a part replaced that may not be the problem.
I called around to several local shops and explained my issue. They all said that they would not know how to diagnose this problem in any way other than throwing replacement parts at it, and trying to determine which part(s) are causing the issue. All shops seemed to agree that the D/C jack is a likely culprit.

It's a bit underwhelming to find out that they had no other way to diagnose the problem other than disassembling the laptop and playing a guessing game with replacement parts. At least I only have to pay for the part(s) that solve the issue... (plus the $100/hour rate... cough)
 
Ouch! Sorry to hear is so high. If you feel it is the jack, then I would have them start with that. If it is actually the culprit, then it will cut down on the time.

If there is one near you, have you tried Best Buy's Geek Squad? They may well have better rates as they normally don't charge per hour. Can't hurt to look into it, at least if there is one near you.
 
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