My first AV system


Jun 29, 2014
I have very little knowledge of audio equipment and speakers, especially the connection requirements. So any help is appreciated.

I have recently purchased some decent speakers, 5, of same company, different models, fairly old. So I am in need of buying an av receiver. Already have an idea of what I want, and why. 4k would be nice, 8 ohm system (so almost anything works), with avg (based on lowest speaker suggestion) 50 or so watts per channel.

For what I don't know, which is so much..

Most modern av units have remotes and room acoustics checks. If it has wifi/bluetooth/phone app, do I need the remote for the initial speaker acoustic room check?

If the amp has higher than 50 watt, say 145 watt per channel, is this acceptable? Read some say it is bad for your speakers, others say it doesn't matter, if you don't turn it up to much. Which is it?

Speaker wire, what to get? Is higher gauge better? What are the different inserts/posts.

Subwoofer. I have one, yet don't have one. Computer speakers that I am currently using for my sound system on my tv. The sub isn't good, but it is liveable for now and it is what I have. Even on a low volume, I can hear and feel the sub, on just some nuance sound like a door opening. Can this (just sub) connect to an av center as the sub? What connection type is used for a sub on a amp? If I am going to replace, I need to know what I can or can't use.

Crossover on speakers, do I do something about this? Why is this spec significant?

Bi-wire, do I need special speaker wire for this speaker to work properly? Do I only connect two of the connections, and which two?

Which speakers to have as my back and which to have as my front? Should the speakers with lower and higher hz be in the back, or the front, which also has the least sensitivity?

Again, thank you to anyone whom can help.



BiWire -- No.
Crossovers -- Not something you will have any control over except possibly a self-powered sub.
SubWoofer -- Could be powered by the amp or more likely self-powered. If self powered then an RCA cable would feed line lever (non-amplified) signal to the sub. If your existing sub can accept an RCA type input then it could be used. It may or may not make any difference.
Wattage -- not usually a concern unless you are trying to reach high volume levels or have "difficult" speakers like ribbon speakers. More isn't usually bad until you get beyond 200W/channel. Then you are usually paying for something you will never use.
Speaker Wire -- Quality stranded copper. Cable like Monster cable is more flexible than cheap cables. #14 is probably more than enough. Lower numbers mean larger cables with wire. #12 is bigger cable than #14.



Jun 29, 2014
Only helps a little. The bi wire thing I am guessing is no for first part, what about second part. Subwoofer was provided and was hoping someone would know if it is possible with that exact model, or all computer speakers. For speaker wire is bigger and thicker better? Anyone else willing to help please?

Also new question, for the first one posted. The provided mic for configuring av units. Could you use one you have laying around in stead of the provided one?


Mar 28, 2010
He probably meant no for bi-wiring, as in just run a single cable which I agree with.

As for thickness, this table will tell you what you need:

Just get a spool of quality copper wiring of the thickest gauge you need for a run for all your speakers. For instance, if you need 16 for your fronts and 12 for your rears, just get a spool of 12 gauge. Regardless of what the table gives you, always get at least 16awg, the price difference really isn't that much with smaller wire.

The Mic needs to be the same model that comes with the AVR as the AVR is calibrated to use that particular model. A different model will give different results.

As for using that creative sub I wouldn't. You could, but it's a messy solution and will create other problems that you'd have to deal with.



I concur with @ien2222. The microphone has to have been calibrated with the receiver to give a flat response.
Your speakers may only be able to handle a maximum of 14 gauge. Lower end speakers can have issues with #12 wire. You might have to use metal ends to get the wire to a usable diameter.

Any speaker that can be bi-wired also has a jumper to short between the two sets of terminals Here is an example

Your questions seem like you have been reading $10K stereo equipment reviews, but have a $500 budget. The fancy speaker wire, and special power cords, and all sorts of stuff they TRY to sell to people with WAY TOO MUCH disposable income don't make an audible difference in a room that wasn't built to be a listening room.
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