Reinstalled and modded the heck out of it, this past week.
It now looks (graphics) amazing. Definitely worth laboring over finding the right lighting overhaul and ENB.
Starting to actually play now, fresh as if for the first time.
It still feels weird .. combat is way too easy, missions are straightforward with zero twists and no opportunity to negotiate or deal with any situation except by killing everything, even if there seems to be no point to doing so.
Inventory screens, accessing favorites, and laboring over the map all breaks the immersion, specifically due to how it was implemented (and no, mods did not magically fix all this).
Economics of Skyrim mod might have made gold scarce enough to be interesting now, it remains to be seen.
I dunno, I think I'm just incapable of "getting it".