Toshiba Satellite A200 Random Shutdown

[feva55]

I have an A200-1YO, 1.66ghz, upgraded to Windows 7 RC and 4Gb 667mhz PC 5300 RAM.
My problem started about a month ago when i was still running Vista Home Premium and 3Gb of Ram.
The machine just started switching itself off randomly. No warning, no error codes, no shutting down or logging off screen...just instant OFF.
At first i thought it was a virus so i scanned the hell out of the whole laptop with my Kaspersky Internet Security 2010 and found nothing. Sometimes it would be on for days then suddenly switch off. sometimes when i plug in my external hard drive or my IR remote receiver it will switch off and sometimes it won't. The most annoying one is when it switches off about 2-3 mins after switching it on and i have done absolutely nothing to it.
I have blanked the hd using DBan and installed Windows 7 and it worked fine for a week or so until it started happening again.
There seems to be no repeat action that causes it to switch off. I have read about the overheating ideas and although i have had the laptop for about 16 months the airflow out of the vent on the side seems to be the same as it always has been..I keep the laptop raised at the back to improve the air flow and it doesn't seem to be overheating.
I have run a program called RealTemp and everything seems to be running within acceptable parameters at between 74-79 centigrade and the max showing at 86 degrees.
The ram i have upgraded to and installed is the correct type for the machine as i used Kingston's ram check function as well as checking the Toshiba website, plus it has been a long time since i installed the first 2gb of ram upgrade and nothing happened then.
The laptop is out of warranty so it would cost me an arm and a leg to get it fixed or at least looked at by Toshiba.
Has anybody got any ideas or suggestions as to what the cause may be??
If more information is needed please state what details required.
Many thanks in advance.

Have exactly the same problem with my Dell vostro 1000. tried everything..once it worked well after registry cleanup(Regcure)and virus cleanup(McAfee) but now scanning for malware sometimes causes it to shut down then other things aswell like everything you mentioned..:-🙂-(...

 

[sunnyzags]

6 hours later, and the a200 has NOT missed a beat. AC power attached, battery in, all the startup programs running, including the vdeo card drivers and utility, the CPU set to single core, and the Dynamic CPU Frequency Mode set to Always low, and the computer has NOT frozen or crashed once. Used it for 1 hour, then went to work for 5 hours. Never in the past week have I come back to find the PC not frozen. Maybe I have solved the problem from this computer, hope it works for you too......

Hii
@cors
thr is just a option of uninstalling the processors in contrl panl device mangr
does it harm if i uninstall one processr??

plzz help

 

[sunnyzags]

Hello,
Just joint this forum and to say thanks for your help guys as I am having problems with a200 toshiba,by the way toshiba used to be good but nowadays are all rubbish,anyway thanks,I just unistall processor and also display adapter,both are double under device manager,and put low instead dynamic CPU and seems to be working for the first time with ac charger. I tried previously almost everything,update CPU,new xp,silver compound,definitely toshiba fault,like all other models,eg,toshiba tecra 9100 yamaha sound problem with sp2,still not solved a problem,downloaded at least 50 drivers,using this one for diagnostics/com port,also qosmio g30,gpu repair program,toshiba fault again-at least theta admitted,asked for repair over 200 pounds,sold it.
Once again thanks and let you know if I have problems again.
I read so many replies regarding this but ussualy people say it's problem with gpu or dirt,it is nothing to do with that as laptop switching off sometimes in cole of seconds with ac charger,and finally I also tried to run benchmark and speed fun but could not Finnish it as it swithes off.
Regards
Donbato

Dobanto

plzzz let me know that u uninstalled one of the processrs by what steps ??/

I encounter the same problm

 

[sunnyzags]

It seems to me that toshiba ows us big time with their faulty laptops. We shouldnt be the bearer of these troubles ans costs. I'm seriously planning on contacting them and force them to acknowledge the problem and help us/ repay us, for the trouble we went trough. This is no different than all those asian cars being recalled from the US. If nessecary we can blow this out in the open. Very very bad marketing for toshiba.... They might be willing to listen, but we do need to act as a group then. By that i mean a groupcomplaint of all of us at the same time. Also from te people who already have it fixed by now. Im quite willing to take a lead in this (live in the netherlands), but i do need back up to make my point and to be taken seriously. Anyone interested?? Please let me know asap. With kind regards, J. Kievits

Hii Kie

I joined this forum lately
but u r rite nd if u havnt initiated the step
i m with u

 

[vectra500]

I've been having what appears to be a related problem. This is on a Toshiba A200 PSAF6A-07G01N, about 2.5 years old. A few months ago, the machine began spontaneously rebooting (presently at least a couple of times a week; it has been progressively more frequent, I think). The machine simply powers off briefly (1-5s or thereabouts), and then restarts. The power-off is instantaneous, with no blue-screen or other apparent software problem. It also occurs in Windows Vista x86, Windows 7 x86, and Ubuntu Linux x86 10.10.
I have tried running the system without a hard drive (from boot CD) - same problem
Fresh install of Windows - same problem
System restore - same problem

I have been monitoring the core temperatures while running burn-in tests. The cores reach 72ish degrees celcius (which they are on while I write this) and seem to operate fine at this peak temperature. Actually, it seems to be more frequent that the machine reboots when I am not actively using in rather than when I am. Mind you, that may simply be because it spends more time running without me actively working on it than with me working on it.

Anyway, after 1.5 continuous hours of burn-in testing the machine still hasn't rebooted during this process. Of course, that may be just pot luck.

Notable, the machine has *never* spontaneously rebooted while running on the battery. It does reboot with the AC power connected, with or without the battery inserted.

As I find more trends or patterns, I'll report them.
Also, the machine is running the most recent firmware (2.5?).

 

[vectra500]

Came accross a post in another forum where this surface mount capacitor is cited as being the culprit. NEC TOKIN OE128

http/www.zimbio.com/Laptop+Reviews/articles/cUMLNqDc_WN/NEC+TOKIN+0E128+OE128+Proadlizer+Capacitors

 

[BryanSellick]

Hi all, I might be having the same problem but want to verify the symptoms.

Seemingly random 'freezes' - power light stays on and, bizarrely, the DVD drive light turns on and stays on, but screen goes blank (display + backlight), no HD activity, utterly unresponsive. Thought maybe the DVD drive had some fault (eg throwing a bad interrupt) but I tried removing the drive and the problem still occurred. Independent of OS, has happened during startup as well as once Vista is booted up. Has occurred on battery power, mains power with the battery in, and mains power with the battery removed. The only thing to do at that point is hold down the power button until the hard power-off kicks in and reboot. Seems largely random but possibly linked to minor vibration/shock..? Not entirely sure.

Regards
Jim

Did you find a fix?

 

[vectra500]

Jim most of are having the problem of the laptop shutting down and starting back up with out any warning, this has generally been when running on power supply.

When mine runs on battery is rarely has the problem, but still exists.

I Have replaced power supply with no change, problem still exists which led me to the IC or Capacitor problem.

Try this link it may help your problem does not sound the same.



http/tim.id.au/laptops/toshiba/satellite%20a200.pdf

Regards Bill

 

[xettera]

A client gave me an A200 to fix.
It had 320gb as main drive and 200gb as secondary drive.
I tried to retrieve data from the 320gb drive, but it was seriously messed up.
I bought a replacement 320gb drive and tried reinstalling vista.
Machine kept rebooting at almost random points during install.

Long story short:
XP Live cd worked fine ONLY with no HDDs installed.
Only way to get vista to survive the install process was to only have the 200gb drive installed.

I read the service manual and some other stuff. Looks like there may be a hdd capacity limit of either 200gb or 250gb each drive.

Can anyone else confirm if this has made a difference for them?

 

[black1035]

thx to corsa59, now my a200 problem settle..

 

[salvoghana]

hi there br_15. just thought i'd let you know that i got it fixed and it wasn't the motherboard but it was an internal fault. the guy in the shop wouldn't tell me exactly what it was though (like it was a government secret!).
he had used a prog called speedfan and upgraded the bios (not sure where from as i had already checked on the toshiba site and had the latest version).
just before i put it in the shop it had only been working on the battery and whenever i plugged in the power cable it would switch off instantly.
i'm guessing that the fan speed had something to do with it obviously, but i don't care anymore! it's working now and i just wanted to say thanks for your help.
Cheers, Dude! (or is it Dudette?)

Hi, I am working for the Salvation Army in West Africa and have had the same problem with my toshiba. IT support is telling me similar things as everyone else. Where did you get yours fixed and can you post the contact information so I can call them.

Thanks

 

[tatooedsn]

You probably don't monitor this thread anymore Corsa, but your method is allowing me to reinstall windows as I type!

I tried replacing the hard drive, inverter, cpu fan, and video card to no avail. I was trying to avoid the mobo since it costs so much. Nowadays the mobo is cheaper than the 100 smackers I paid for the video card a year ago.

I'm still wondering if its a mobo or cpu issue in case I want to resolve this later. Normally I wouldn't care, but this laptop has a french keyboard that my portuguese wife enjoys using here in the states. Thanks again! I think I may get some brownie points with the wife!

Here is a solution that I found, and it has worked for me, so far.......

My guess is your laptops are exhibiting the same problem I faced, random crashes and freezes, with no warning.

I replaced the hard drive, reinstalled windows vista, same result.
Replaced ram, no better.
Replaced power supply, no good.
Run in safe mode, works fine, but very limited use.
Removed all the startup programs, still crashed.
Pulled my hair out, that worked for 10 minutes......
Replaced CPU, new thermal paste, reseated everything, and reassembled, and it worked perfectly, for about 3 hours, and then started crashing and freezing again.
Replaced vista with 7, and it wouldn't start at all........

Then I found a forum article that suggested that it only occurred when BOTH the battery and AC power supply where plugged in, disconnected the AC, started on battery only, and the problem seems to have completely dissappeared.

Not a solution, but certainly a step in the right direction. Now it appears then that something causes the computer to freeze on the motherboard at the AC point, or in the connection between the AC and the battery.

Forum suggested changing a bios setting.

Change the following setting in the bios setup, under the 'Advanced' tab
Dynamic CPU Frequency Mode = Always Low (NOT DYNAMIC)
Save and Restart

Now, this laptop has been running on battery only power without a problem for 2hours without a hitch, I was lucky if I could get 20 minutes out of it before, and most times it would not even start.

I am about to connect the AC power (whilst running) to see what happens, so I will report back on the result in the morning after it has been running for 5 or 6 hours.

Hope this helps. Will report back with further results

 

[Notsosure]

To my knowledge the only permanent solution is changing the NEC/TOKIN 0E128 Proadlizer Capacitor. All other solutions are temporary as they are just like providing life support systems while the capacitor is dying. Irrespective of what you do the capacitor ultimately dies. If one has time and patience then it is not very difficult to change that. Removing the old one is the most difficult part. Still the job can be done in 1-2 hours. I used a plier to crush it, which essentially removes the black plastic part. Then I used a a small and sharp flat head screw driver to chisel it delicately. One can use a small hammer or the plier itself to gently hit the sharp screw driver to chisel out the remaiining capaitor. Intermittently I used a small USB vacuum cleaner to suck out remaining tiny pieces. It is now very cleanly removed and I am waiting for my replacement capacitor to arrive. One can either use the exact same part as replacement or use several of smaller capacitance low-esr tantalum capacitors. The former apparently has limited life and hence people are going for the latter. I have ordered both but will probably use the former. I may upload some pictures later but for the timebeing the following links might help others make up their mind:

http/www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/toshiba-satellite-a205/laptop-disassembly-1.htm

http/wiisingonline.com/NEC-TOKIN-0E128-OE128-Proadlizer-Capacitors-solve-Toshiba-Laptop-Problem-p-4088-272.html

http/australia.rs-online.com/web/c/?sra=oss&searchTerm=Tantalum%20Capacitors&cm_mmc=AU-PPC-0411-_-google-_-1_EEM_Capacitor_UK-_-tantalum%20capacitors_Phrase

 

[tatooedsn]

Wow, that's great info! Let me know how you make out with the capacitor change. I was able to install windows, but it goes back to a black screen after install is completed. I may try this myself if you have success. Pics of your project would awesome!

 

[kuzman67]

I've just ordered the capacitor too. My problem will be to find someone who will do the job correctly now. I don't think that heating the crap out of it is the correct way?

 

[Notsosure]

Some people have used heat gun to soften/melt the solder of OE128 to facilitate its removal. However, I just used physical means to avoid any possible damage due to heat. Other usual precautions such as disconnecting AC power, removing the battery, wearing antistatic wristband, etc will have to be followed in such disassembly procedures, of course.

In the first link of my previous post STEPS 17-21 show the OE128 Capacitor in A205 (apparently). In A200 the capacitor will be visible only after the fan has been removed. My replacement capacitor is yet to arrive but I have included some photos in the link below to show what I have done so far. I may have to just melt the existing solder on the terminals (and perhaps add a bit more solder) and stick the new capacitor there. I will update again once it is done.

http/gs138.photobucket.com/groups/q251/S1BXDWUERU/

 

[leinad0931]

Some people have used heat gun to soften/melt the solder of OE128 to facilitate its removal. However, I just used physical means to avoid any possible damage due to heat. Other usual precautions such as disconnecting AC power, removing the battery, wearing antistatic wristband, etc will have to be followed in such disassembly procedures, of course.

In the first link of my previous post STEPS 17-21 show the OE128 Capacitor in A205 (apparently). In A200 the capacitor will be visible only after the fan has been removed. My replacement capacitor is yet to arrive but I have included some photos in the link below to show what I have done so far. I may have to just melt the existing solder on the terminals (and perhaps add a bit more solder) and stick the new capacitor there. I will update again once it is done.

http/gs138.photobucket.com/groups/q251/S1BXDWUERU/

Thank you very much for this post... Very informative and helpful... still waiting for the update Sir... 99% hoping that this post/solution is the one i need for reviving my A205.... Thank you!!!

 

[Notsosure]

Yes, its done! Solved!! Perfect!!!

I have soldered the new OE128 cap and my A200 is working perfectly again after nearly two years of gradual and painful death. I just added the solder on the new OE128 cap at eight locations corresponding to the tips of the four pads/terminals. Then after placing the cap on the pads I simply inserted the hot soldering iron tip to touch and melt off the solder already added there. Although I first added the solder onto the new cap the same results could be achieved by adding the solder onto the tips of the pads, placing the new cap over them and then melting off the added solder by touching with the tip of a hot soldering iron. The photos given in the following link might help those who want to try the same:

http/gs138.photobucket.com/groups/q251/S1BXDWUERU/

Of course, one could also do soldering in a more conventional fashion by feeding the solder wire onto the hot iron tip placed at appropriate locations.

Now do not have any more doubts. This is a 100% sure and perfect solution (until the cap dies again, of course) not only for A200 but many other models of Toshiba that use OE128 or OE907 cap and exhibit random restarts, freezing when AC is connected, etc, etc.

 

[Notsosure]

Those who want to replace their NEC/TOKIN capacitor with apparently more durable tantalum capacitors may see this:
http/www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8991&page=8

When soldered, tantalum caps look like this: http/www.google.com.au/imgres?q=a305+toshiba+tantalum&hl=en&safe=active&sa=X&rlz=1W1ADRA_enAU347&biw=1280&bih=799&tbm=isch&prmd=imvns&tbnid=SHHrTeWmdgExmM:&imgrefurl=http/www.forumnow.com.br/vip/mensagens.asp%3Fforum%3D32226%26topico%3D3029069&docid=xQgzmrRdRowFQM&imgurl=http/img823.imageshack.us/img823/5528/trabalhopronto.jpg&w=640&h=480&ei=uHcTT7bVCMPJmQWf8tn-CQ&zoom=1
However, the specs of tantalum cap must be chosen carefully, especially its ESR ( http/wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Capacitors_and_ESR ). The rated ESR of OE128 is 2 mOhm and hence the ESR of each of the four 330uF tantalum caps soldered in parallel should not ideally exceed 8 mOhm (In practice, somewhat higher ESR might still be OK). The following cap seems to match most of the specs:
http/australia.rs-online.com/web/p/tantalum-solid/0147639/

 

[Guest]

Yes, its done! Solved!! Perfect!!!

I have soldered the new OE128 cap and my A200 is working perfectly again after nearly two years of gradual and painful death. I just added the solder on the new OE128 cap at eight locations corresponding to the tips of the four pads/terminals. Then after placing the cap on the pads I simply inserted the hot soldering iron tip to touch and melt off the solder already added there. Although I first added the solder onto the new cap the same results could be achieved by adding the solder onto the tips of the pads, placing the new cap over them and then melting off the added solder by touching with the tip of a hot soldering iron. The photos given in the following link might help those who want to try the same:

http/gs138.photobucket.com/groups/q251/S1BXDWUERU/

Of course, one could also do soldering in a more conventional fashion by feeding the solder wire onto the hot iron tip placed at appropriate locations.

Now do not have any more doubts. This is a 100% sure and perfect solution (until the cap dies again, of course) not only for A200 but many other models of Toshiba that use OE128 or OE907 cap and exhibit random restarts, freezing when AC is connected, etc, etc.

I opened my A200 today only to find out that my motherboard looks a bit different than yours. The most disturbing was the fact that there's no need to remove the fan in order to access the capacitor. What is more, there's not 1 but 10 small capacitors.
I'm pretty angry right know as I've been waiting two weeks now for OE128 coming from Hong Kong.
I'll post the pic of motherboard later today.
Can somebody advise me what to do here?
I'm really desperate and seriously considering new laptop tomorrow afternoon.