Memory is the easiest upgrade. From a quick perusal of Newegg's site, it looks like you can get 2x2GB DDR2 SO-DIMMs for about $15-$25. So you should be able to find them at a decent price in your country.
Since it's a Core 2 Duo era laptop, then the SATA ports are likely SATA 2 (300 MB/s) or even SATA 1 (150 MB/s). This by itself isn't that big a deal. Most of the speedup from a SSD comes from improved small file read speeds (goes from about 1 MB/s on a HDD to about 30-50 MB/s on a SSD, or a 30-50x improvement), not the sequential speeds everyone looks at (goes from about 125 MB/s to about 500 MB/s so only a 4x improvement).
But this may be old enough that it doesn't support AHCI mode on SATA. AHCI is what's needed for NCQ - native command queuing. That's what allows SSDs to process multiple file requests simultaneously. SSDs are so fast that requesting a file I/O operation can take longer than the actual file read or write. NCQ allows it to receive multiple file requests at once, and process them simultaneously instead of one at a time. This can increase small file speeds further to 200-300 MB/s.
So while you most likely can upgrade it to a SSD, you probably won't see as big a speed increase as you would with a newer system. I suppose it's not that big a deal though since you can just move the SSD into whatever new laptop or desktop you eventually buy to replace this one.
The other problem with a SSD I can see is that Vista doesn't support TRIM. That's how the OS tells the SSD which disk sectors are safe to delete. SSDs need to pre-erase these deleted sectors to maintain speed - if they try to erase them just before the write, the slow erase step makes them about as slow as a HDD. Newer SSDs are programmed to recognize common filesystems so can still function without TRIM. But if you try to save money by buying a used SSD, or an older model on closeout sale, you may find that after a few months to a year of use, the SSD suddenly becomes slower. Because it no longer has any remaining pre-erased sectors remaining, and doesn't know which sectors are safe to erase.
Also be aware that most Toshiba laptops from that era used some weird Intel RAID config on their drives, even though there was only a single drive. In order to boot off the drive, the SATA ports have to be in RAID mode (which is a superset of AHCI if available). And in order to install a fresh copy of Windows onto the drive, you either need the original Toshiba install DVD (which has the RAID drivers built-in), or you need to do a more complicated install where you boot off the Windows install DVD, load the RAID drivers from another disk, then proceed with the Windows install. Cloning your existing HDD is likely the easiest option, but that requires you put your new SSD in some sort of external USB enclosure during the cloning process.
As for the processor, contrary to the above poster, many of the Core and Core 2 era laptop CPUs were socketed. It looks like the T5250 uses Socket P (PPGA-478).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_..."Merom",_"Merom-2M"_(standard-voltage,_65_nm)
https://ark.intel.com/products/30786
So any processor you see on the above list that is Socket P with a TDP of 35W or lower should be a viable upgrade option. Just be aware that when upgrading to a CPU that's newer than your original one, there's a small risk it won't work. Support for newer CPUs has to be added via a BIOS update (make sure you update the BIOS before removing the old CPU). And sometimes laptop manufacturers don't bother once they stop producing that particular model. But in my experience Toshiba is pretty good about updating the BIOS on older systems.
Technically swapping the CPU on a socketed laptop isn't any different from a desktop. But laptops use a lot of ribbon cables which you can easily tear if you aren't careful. The couple Toshiba laptops I took apart from that era both required you to access the CPU by removing the keyboard, which involved detaching the ribbon cable for the keyboard and trackpad. Then you had to lift out the heatsink+fan, which again involved detaching wires for the WiFi antenna and yet another ribbon cable. So try to find an online video for disassembling your laptop model and watch the process first. And take lots of pictures with your phone as you go, so you can refer back to them if you don't remember where a particular cable goes. Or you could just take it to a shop and have them do the upgrade for you.