domainer1986

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Aug 12, 2014
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Dear all,

Based on your experience i would like to ask whether is it possible to cool down the chipset on an old toshiba sattelite A300 laptop. I opened it and cleaned the fan and all but still the chipset when in an idle state is around 60 degrees. (Room temperature is around 30-35 degrees).

My question is whether is worthy to give it a try to cool it with coolaboratory liquid pro. I haven't tried applying that thing to a laptop before because i am afraid that when i try to put the chipset's metal cover on top, something might move around and spread the TIM outside of the surface of the cpu or the chipset.

By the way how they designed this laptop is that the cpu gets covered with the metal that ends up to the fan but the chipset is underneath the surface of the board therefore it has a different metal cover which doesn't stick to the fan. It is just spreading the heat throughout the bottom part of the board.

Do you think is worthy of trying to apply on the laptop. Is there some sort of special tape i can tape it around the chipset so that in case the TIM goes out not to touch the motherboard? I would truly appreciate your comments since i am counting on your experience on these subjects.

Regards
George

P.S. something more to mention is that the heat in the laptop is very annoying because especially during noon when is very hot, you can boil an egg on the left side of the laptop :) sometimes i feel like i am going to get blisters just by typing :)
 
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This method of posting is fine. The problem with masking is that the heatsink frame covers a much larger area than the chip IHS itself, and there are many points of contact...

KyleADunn

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Jul 8, 2014
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When I had a similar overheating problem, I was able to resolve it simply by adding a good cooling rack beneath it. Cooler master makes some great cooling racks (I used the http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834997727&cm_re=coolermaster_laptop_cooler-_-34-997-727-_-Product)
 

volcanoscout

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Jan 5, 2014
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I think re-applying thermal paste is a good idea but I would use a different paste unless you're pretty experienced at applying it. Liquid Pro is about the best, but application can be challenging, particularly in a laptop where the sink tends to settle from one side to the other rather than going down flat. Also, from pictures it looks like at least some of the aluminum from the heatsink may come into contact with the CPU in addition to the copper transfer pipe, in which case you definitely don't want to use Liquid Pro. Gelid Solutions GC Extreme, Noctua NT-H1,Prolimatech PK-3 or Arctic MX 4 would be good alternatives, among others.

A cooling pad might help, but in my experience it works better with laptops with metal cases. Simply propping up the rear of the laptop when you're using it can help your cooling quite a bit.
 

volcanoscout

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Haven't used that before. How does it work - put the thermal compound in the center and the adhesive around the edge? According to Arctic, the adhesive is not for use between the CPU and heatsink, so I wonder why they bundle it with the thermal compound.
 

junkeymonkey

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Nov 11, 2013
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don't know but looking around to find something for him for laptops it kept coming up as in what to use .. so I guess that you will need something that will hold if you were to drop slam fall off table what ever that may knock non adhesive stuff loose ???
 

domainer1986

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Aug 12, 2014
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Thank you all for your replies. I wouldn't like to use a cooling pad underneath cause i feel it will remove some of the purpose of mobility of the laptop. I ordered some prolimatech pk3 to give it a try. My question was also aiming whether if there is any type of tape (that can withstand the heat) in order to cover the board around the chipset so that i can try some liquid pro.

By the way this is the first time i am posting a thread. how can i comment i dont want to post this as an answer but i cant find any other options in order to keep the thread active
 

volcanoscout

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Jan 5, 2014
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This method of posting is fine. The problem with masking is that the heatsink frame covers a much larger area than the chip IHS itself, and there are many points of contact between the mobo and the sink. Any material you use to mask is probably going to end up staying there, and if it's going to be close enough to the IHS to do any good, it's still going to be in contact when you lock the sink down. Might cause an issue or two once the CPU starts heating up. If you plan to remove the masking prior to mounting the sink, it kind of defeats the purpose of masking in the first place.

Edit: I should modify that last line - if you're manually spreading, masking can be helpful, even if you remove it before cooler installation.
 
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domainer1986

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Aug 12, 2014
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So i guess i will be sticking with the prolimatech pk-3 hoping that it will make some difference. Thank you for your prompt reply