Need some help. Brown mess on the board (Car amplifier, probably shorted)

[Alanthor]

So. I just opened my amplifier up because it won't work.
the "Protect" LED is illuminated. Most common cause is a bad ground connection, but this aint that. That gotta means something inside is shorted, right?

Once I open it, I got stunned.. Its some kind of a brownish layer on the majority of every solderpoint that is "touching" the solderpoint right next to it.. So I guess that leads electricity, which makes the amplifiers anti-short feature to activated?

I havent yet been able to pick the whole board up and look under it, but im working on it. Would cleaning/removing this brown mess fix the amp? (Assumed that's the cause)

 

[kanewolf]

That looks like solder flux to me. That would be perfectly normal for something that was hand soldered. The fact that the leads were cut after soldering suggests that hand soldering is what was done.

 

[Alanthor]

Oh boy I was out lost in the space there... 😛 So those "solder-flux" (the brown substance ON the actual solderjoint?) Damnit... I actually thought that I was lucky to skip the troubleshooting.... So, any advices on what I should be looking for and maybe even where? Or well, any advices at all is appreciated.
OBS! I got no multimeter, so.... No.. BUT! I got a thing that tells if there's any electricity or not on tested component, but thats all.

 

[kanewolf]

Oh boy I was out lost in the space there... 😛 So those "solder-flux" (the brown substance ON the actual solderjoint?) Damnit... I actually thought that I was lucky to skip the troubleshooting.... So, any advices on what I should be looking for and maybe even where? Or well, any advices at all is appreciated.
OBS! I got no multimeter, so.... No.. BUT! I got a thing that tells if there's any electricity or not on tested component, but thats all.

If you don't have proper test tools and proper schematics you will probably only damage things (including yourself) further. You don't sound qualified to be digging too deep into your problem. I recommend taking your device to a an experienced professional.

 

[Alanthor]

Oh boy I was out lost in the space there... 😛 So those "solder-flux" (the brown substance ON the actual solderjoint?) Damnit... I actually thought that I was lucky to skip the troubleshooting.... So, any advices on what I should be looking for and maybe even where? Or well, any advices at all is appreciated.
OBS! I got no multimeter, so.... No.. BUT! I got a thing that tells if there's any electricity or not on tested component, but thats all.

If you don't have proper test tools and proper schematics you will probably only damage things (including yourself) further. You don't sound qualified to be digging too deep into your problem. I recommend taking your device to a an experienced professional.

Wow, I mean.. Why the heck would you give such an recommendation to go get professional help to someone who's clearly want's to try. And with some logical thinking and a above-average intelligence quote, it usualy goes fine.

With your recommendation, how are people that wants to learn actually learn? Sorry, but I just HAD to go against that, I think its so wrong it could be.

This amplifier is "I-Dont-even-know-old" on 100watt, a DLS Reference 100A, so I couldnt care less if I dont manage to repaor a amp that isnt working... So please... Read my posts, reply that is relevant to my questions, or dont even bother replying... Please!

 

[kanewolf]

Your statement that you don't have a multimeter is what caused me to say "don't try this at home" ... It would also seem that you wouldn't know which end of a diode is which...

If you care to "play" then get a multimeter and a soldering iron (25W) and rosin core solder. That is the MINIMUM set of tools you have to have.

My guess, is that if the protect LED is illuminated, you ran the amp with too low resistance speakers or at too high a level.