Archived from groups: rec.audio.tech (
More info?)
Peter,
Thanks for the technical advice. I guess my primary concerns for this
post were pertaining to cabinet volume and driver specs, having built
cabinets for speakers in the past. At this point, the most probable
solution is to replace the surrounds and get a little more time out of
these speakers.
Was it you that recommended getting some Tannoys in the other forum??
I've thought of getting new speakers in the past, but it's kind of
like selecting a mate for life...while they look and sound pretty good
at the store, you get them home and you find out about those little
things that irritate you. I used to work in the audio industry, so
buying decisions are few and far between. Srarting medical school has
not helped either due to the lack of time spent actively listening.
I'll figure it out, but thanks for the insight.
Brad
Peter Larsen <SPAMSHIELD_plarsen@mail.tele.dk> wrote in message news:<4104FC66.16B063D7@mail.tele.dk>...
> Brad wrote:
>
> > I have a set of JBL L60T speakers that are in need of a surround
> > replacement. I know that I can replace the surrounds with rubber
> > instead of foam,
>
> There could be minor parameter issues, but it appears to be the wiser
> solution.
>
> > but I am interested in changing the drivers
> > altogether.
>
> What is it that you want to obtain?
>
> > The internal dimensions of the cabinet are about 1.6 cubic
> > feet, which makes it difficult to find really good replacements.
>
> I don't see a problemk, appears to be a very reasonable volume for a
> probable 8" unit.
>
> > The other issue is that the overall efficiency of the cabinets
> > are about 89 db. I would like to increase this moderately
>
> Simply said you can't unless you also increase box volume, more LF
> efficiency generally as a simple guideline necessitates a larger box.
>
> > but realize that by doing so, I am also modifying the function
> > of the crossover networks.
>
> That is - almost - the least worry. Cabinet tuning could be a larger
> worry, it is already a "concern" when using a non-standard front
> suspension, but the front suspension is not likely to alter a units
> properties all that much, this based on gp knowhow gained from Duelunds
> unit rebuilds in the 1970-ties.
>
> >> Can anyone recommend which route I should take with replacement??
>
> Use original spareparts, you loudspeakers will then be ebayable, ebay
> them, get something else that solves whatever it is you want solved.
>
> If you want to use a different bass unit, then the best avenue is to
> start with designing a proper box for it and DO maintain the box width,
> it is a parameter in the cross-over design for acoustic reasons. Build a
> smaller box for the original "top-units", whatever they are, and do
> maintain distance to side of box as well as to top of box, both are also
> likely to be parameters in the original cross-over.
>
> There are two possible outcomes: the upper range frequency response and
> the induction of the voice coil of the new unit will be similar enough
> to the original unit for the sound to be acceptable or not.
>
> Both are compensated for in the current cross-over. If it is a 3-way
> then the frequency response issues may be so well correlated with unit
> size that the compensations fit. The cross-over may be designed so that
> a simple tweaking of a capacitor and resistor in parallel with the unit
> is all that is required, or it may be computer optimized to use the
> least amount of components for lowest manufacturing costs, in which case
> it is untweakable.
>
> > Thanks in advance...
>
> Yes, you can also try simply inserting another bass unit. Bass reflex
> tuning will be incorrect, the simple solution is to close the port. No
> matter the units mid-band efficiency rating you will loose bass range
> efficiency or at best maintain it, it will not increase, not even if you
> find a unit with a rated 6 dB higher efficiency.
>
>
> Kind regards
>
> Peter Larsen
/www.muyiovatki.dk
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