I recently purchased this laptop and plan to replace the 1TB HDD with an SSD sometime this month. I went to open it to make sure I knew how to get to the hard drive bay before I bough the SSD, and I'm having trouble opening it. If any one has this model or knows where I can find a video on it I would really appreciate it. I've looked on Youtube for a while and can't seem to find this specific model.
How To Disassemble Acer Aspire V15 V3-572-5217
- Thread starter adams215
- Start date
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- disassemble Hard Drives
Hey
Iv worked on similar models and looks like you put the laptop on ur desk with the back of the screen facing down. Then remove all the screws from the base case.. then from the front (with ur fingers or thin object, ) prize the bottom case off.. then you should have access to everything.
Hope this helps
Iv worked on similar models and looks like you put the laptop on ur desk with the back of the screen facing down. Then remove all the screws from the base case.. then from the front (with ur fingers or thin object, ) prize the bottom case off.. then you should have access to everything.
Hope this helps
I've tried this. The bottom of the case has about 18 screws, no screws under the rubber feet (I checked all of them) and small clips that hold the bottom in place. I've taken the backs off laptops with similar designs with no issue. I am able to get the clips off of the bottom except toward the back where the hinges are. I've tried to get any clips off back there but it doesn't move and I don't want to apply too much pressure and break something so I'm wondering if there's something else holding it in place. I've also looked into the laptop after getting it mostly open and I see a couple of ribbon cabled connection the mobo to components under the keyboard since the mobo seems to be on the bottom of the case instead of being under the keyboard so I'll also have to worry about those when taking it off.
another_acer
Estimable
- Feb 21, 2015
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whitey86 is correct. I have disassembled my Acer Aspire V15 V3-572-78R3 by taking out the 18 screws from the bottom. I used a plastic tool shaped like a guitar pick to carefully separate the bottom from the top. It is a bit sticky near the hinges but it does separate without damage. There are three ribbon cable which detach easily; all of them have moveable latches so it is easy to reinsert them when you reassemble.There is a blank filler tray in the DVD tray position so maybe you could even install another drive.
I just put a SSD in my new V15 but there's a catch. The machine will not power up when assembled. It will when it is apart no problem, runs like a champ then. When snapping in the corner with the power switch in it, the machine goes dead. Pull it apart and it fires right up. Can't find an open in the switch ribbon cable. I've never run into anything like this before, I've isolated the back of the switch with tape, no difference, flexed the cover near the switch to replicate the power loss, no joy. Pushed on the components that might get loaded when the top snaps in, nothing. So, to get the machine apart, if you dare, take out the battery and the screws on the back, there are none under the feet. Pry the case apart at the bond line, but beware, there are 3 ribbon cables connecting the case top to the bottom. Carefully separate them to access the cables. The two small cables have the pop up connectors, The third is the old fashioned slide connector for the keyboard. That's about it, your V15 is apart, but will it restart when put back together?
another_acer
Estimable
- Feb 21, 2015
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Here are links to a couple of images of my open Acer V15 v3-572-R73. Does this look like the inside of yours? 
and 
and
another_acer :
Here are links to a couple of images of my open Acer V15 v3-572-R73. Does this look like the inside of yours? and
and That is exactly what mine looks like. Although after what Jamesp19 said I'm a bit weary at taking this apart. The design for this laptop is something else. I don't think I've worked with a design that makes it so difficult to replace the HDD.
Friendlyplanet
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- May 30, 2015
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[/quotemsg]
That is exactly what mine looks like. Although after what Jamesp19 said I'm a bit weary at taking this apart. The design for this laptop is something else. I don't think I've worked with a design that makes it so difficult to replace the HDD.[/quotemsg]
Just finished swapping out my 1TB drive for an SSD- easy process after reading the above posts- thanks guys!
a couple of notes-
5 ribbons to disconnect- 4 between the keyboard and the back, and one that goes across the hard drive. Remember to reconnect the one across the hard drive before you screw it back down, because you need the play to get the ribbon reconnected.
My machine started up with no problem with the SSD in it, so the earlier poster with the boot up problems must have either damaged another part, or have problems with the new SSD.
Yes, the designers could have easily installed a separate hatch cover for the HDD, making it easier to swap. But all in all, a fairly painless process, at least compared to my dell, which required desemmbly of the keyboard and multiple layers to get to the HDD.
That is exactly what mine looks like. Although after what Jamesp19 said I'm a bit weary at taking this apart. The design for this laptop is something else. I don't think I've worked with a design that makes it so difficult to replace the HDD.[/quotemsg]
Just finished swapping out my 1TB drive for an SSD- easy process after reading the above posts- thanks guys!
a couple of notes-
5 ribbons to disconnect- 4 between the keyboard and the back, and one that goes across the hard drive. Remember to reconnect the one across the hard drive before you screw it back down, because you need the play to get the ribbon reconnected.
My machine started up with no problem with the SSD in it, so the earlier poster with the boot up problems must have either damaged another part, or have problems with the new SSD.
Yes, the designers could have easily installed a separate hatch cover for the HDD, making it easier to swap. But all in all, a fairly painless process, at least compared to my dell, which required desemmbly of the keyboard and multiple layers to get to the HDD.
Dylan Shekter
Honorable
- Aug 8, 2013
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- 10,510
for anyone wondering, there appears, at least on my v3-572g-54L9 that there i another slim sata for the odd, I haven't tested to see if acer did anything to it that would hinder or block its performance. Jut an fyi.
I’ve just successfully replaced the hard disk in my Acer Aspire V15 V3-574 with a new SSD. This thread is about the closest I can find with instructions on how to do it, but I haven’t found anywhere a good resource for this particular model (and presumably other models based on the Aspire V15). So I’ve written up a little guide below with some photos, hopefully this will be helpful to others.
Step 1 – Flip the laptop over and remove the 17 screws circled in red in fig. 2
Step 2 – Remove the screw holding in the DVD drive (circled blue in fig. 2), then slide out the DVD drive to reveal 3 further screws.
Step 3 – Remove the 3 screws under the DVD drive, circled in green in fig. 4
Step 4 – Turn the laptop the right way up and fully open the screen. Using something thin and plastic (I used a kid’s glue spreader – see fig. 5 http
/www.hobbycraft.co.uk/glue-spreaders-5-pack/582522-1000) start from the front and prise up the silver panel. Work around the two sides until you reach the back
Step 5 – Close the screen and turn the laptop back upside down. Using the plastic tool prise apart the back edge around the screen. Be careful not to let the two pieces of casing suddenly pull apart as there is a very thin wire connecting them.
Step 6 – Once the bottom part of the casing is fully unclipped, tilt it up from the back edge (where the screen hinges are) as in fig. 6. You will see that the small wire connecting the case to the motherboard labelled in fig. 7. It is possible for this wire to be unclipped and the case fully removed. However the connector (fig. 8) is quite tight. I decided to leave it clipped in and propped the case up using a box. You can still get full access to the inside without unclipping this wire.
Step 7 – To remove the hard drive, simply lift from the outside edge and slide away from the connector (fig. 9). There are no screws or clips holding the hard drive in place. The hard drive is in a small “caddy” made up of two rubber strips and a thin transparent plastic sheet (fig 10). The two rubber strips fold outwards from the hard drive.
Step 8 – Insert your new drive into the caddy. The SSD I bought was thinner than the original hard drive, so I attached the stick-on plastic frame that came supplied with the new drive to make it thicker (fig. 11). Re-insert the drive into the laptop.
Step 9 – At this point it is best to check that everything works, because reassembling the case is a bit tricky and you only want to do it once. Fold the back case down and let it sit loosely over the motherboard. Flip the laptop the right way up and turn it on. Make sure everything boots up properly. If it doesn’t you’ll have to look elsewhere on the net for help as it could be many different things! (Although see my notes below first).
Step 10 – Reassemble. I found this more tricky than disassembly. Start from the back hinge, then flip the laptop and work around. Make sure all of the ports / connectors are correctly placed in the casing holes. As there are USB sockets on both sides of the case, it can be a bit tricky getting the case to fit back over the top (fig. 12)
Step 11 – Put in the three screws in the DVD tray area, slide in the DVD drive and put back the 17 case screws and the 1 DVD drive screw. Good practice is to get all of the screws in “finger tight” then go back and tighten them all up at the end. Job done.
Notes:
I had a few issues doing this which you may or may not also have:
(1) When I first installed the new SSD, the computer turned on but didn’t boot up. I replaced the old HDD to confirm I hadn’t broken anything (which I hadn’t) and got Windows loaded up. The issue was that before cloning my HDD, I formatted the new SSD in Windows, where it was assigned the drive letter E. I guess this was sticking and so the laptop wouldn’t boot. To solve, I reconnected the new SSD via a USB enclosure, opened the Windows 10 computer management app and went to “Disk management”. The main partition of the cloned SSD was again showing drive letter “E”. By right clicking on the partition, you can remove the drive letter so that the disk is unassigned. I re-installed the SSD in the laptop and it booted fine.
(2) During reassembly I really struggled to get the case seated over the front left corner of the laptop (where the audio jack is). This was due to a thin bit of plastic left over from the injection moulding blocking the jack hole. Using a craft knife I carefully removed this bit of plastic to fully open up the hole, which helped the casing seat nicely.
(3) The first boot after reassembly I noticed that the DVD drive had disappeared. Fortunately it reappeared after a restart!!
Step 1 – Flip the laptop over and remove the 17 screws circled in red in fig. 2
Step 2 – Remove the screw holding in the DVD drive (circled blue in fig. 2), then slide out the DVD drive to reveal 3 further screws.
Step 3 – Remove the 3 screws under the DVD drive, circled in green in fig. 4
Step 4 – Turn the laptop the right way up and fully open the screen. Using something thin and plastic (I used a kid’s glue spreader – see fig. 5 http
/www.hobbycraft.co.uk/glue-spreaders-5-pack/582522-1000) start from the front and prise up the silver panel. Work around the two sides until you reach the back Step 5 – Close the screen and turn the laptop back upside down. Using the plastic tool prise apart the back edge around the screen. Be careful not to let the two pieces of casing suddenly pull apart as there is a very thin wire connecting them.
Step 6 – Once the bottom part of the casing is fully unclipped, tilt it up from the back edge (where the screen hinges are) as in fig. 6. You will see that the small wire connecting the case to the motherboard labelled in fig. 7. It is possible for this wire to be unclipped and the case fully removed. However the connector (fig. 8) is quite tight. I decided to leave it clipped in and propped the case up using a box. You can still get full access to the inside without unclipping this wire.
Step 7 – To remove the hard drive, simply lift from the outside edge and slide away from the connector (fig. 9). There are no screws or clips holding the hard drive in place. The hard drive is in a small “caddy” made up of two rubber strips and a thin transparent plastic sheet (fig 10). The two rubber strips fold outwards from the hard drive.
Step 8 – Insert your new drive into the caddy. The SSD I bought was thinner than the original hard drive, so I attached the stick-on plastic frame that came supplied with the new drive to make it thicker (fig. 11). Re-insert the drive into the laptop.
Step 9 – At this point it is best to check that everything works, because reassembling the case is a bit tricky and you only want to do it once. Fold the back case down and let it sit loosely over the motherboard. Flip the laptop the right way up and turn it on. Make sure everything boots up properly. If it doesn’t you’ll have to look elsewhere on the net for help as it could be many different things! (Although see my notes below first).
Step 10 – Reassemble. I found this more tricky than disassembly. Start from the back hinge, then flip the laptop and work around. Make sure all of the ports / connectors are correctly placed in the casing holes. As there are USB sockets on both sides of the case, it can be a bit tricky getting the case to fit back over the top (fig. 12)
Step 11 – Put in the three screws in the DVD tray area, slide in the DVD drive and put back the 17 case screws and the 1 DVD drive screw. Good practice is to get all of the screws in “finger tight” then go back and tighten them all up at the end. Job done.
Notes:
I had a few issues doing this which you may or may not also have:
(1) When I first installed the new SSD, the computer turned on but didn’t boot up. I replaced the old HDD to confirm I hadn’t broken anything (which I hadn’t) and got Windows loaded up. The issue was that before cloning my HDD, I formatted the new SSD in Windows, where it was assigned the drive letter E. I guess this was sticking and so the laptop wouldn’t boot. To solve, I reconnected the new SSD via a USB enclosure, opened the Windows 10 computer management app and went to “Disk management”. The main partition of the cloned SSD was again showing drive letter “E”. By right clicking on the partition, you can remove the drive letter so that the disk is unassigned. I re-installed the SSD in the laptop and it booted fine.
(2) During reassembly I really struggled to get the case seated over the front left corner of the laptop (where the audio jack is). This was due to a thin bit of plastic left over from the injection moulding blocking the jack hole. Using a craft knife I carefully removed this bit of plastic to fully open up the hole, which helped the casing seat nicely.
(3) The first boot after reassembly I noticed that the DVD drive had disappeared. Fortunately it reappeared after a restart!!
rowlands111
Estimable
- Jun 2, 2014
- 3
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- 4,510
Jonno123 :
I’ve just successfully replaced the hard disk in my Acer Aspire V15 V3-574 with a new SSD. This thread is about the closest I can find with instructions on how to do it, but I haven’t found anywhere a good resource for this particular model (and presumably other models based on the Aspire V15). So I’ve written up a little guide below with some photos, hopefully this will be helpful to others.
Step 1 – Flip the laptop over and remove the 17 screws circled in red in fig. 2
Step 2 – Remove the screw holding in the DVD drive (circled blue in fig. 2), then slide out the DVD drive to reveal 3 further screws.
Step 3 – Remove the 3 screws under the DVD drive, circled in green in fig. 4
Step 4 – Turn the laptop the right way up and fully open the screen. Using something thin and plastic (I used a kid’s glue spreader – see fig. 5 http/www.hobbycraft.co.uk/glue-spreaders-5-pack/582522-1000) start from the front and prise up the silver panel. Work around the two sides until you reach the back
Step 5 – Close the screen and turn the laptop back upside down. Using the plastic tool prise apart the back edge around the screen. Be careful not to let the two pieces of casing suddenly pull apart as there is a very thin wire connecting them.
Step 6 – Once the bottom part of the casing is fully unclipped, tilt it up from the back edge (where the screen hinges are) as in fig. 6. You will see that the small wire connecting the case to the motherboard labelled in fig. 7. It is possible for this wire to be unclipped and the case fully removed. However the connector (fig. 8) is quite tight. I decided to leave it clipped in and propped the case up using a box. You can still get full access to the inside without unclipping this wire.
Step 7 – To remove the hard drive, simply lift from the outside edge and slide away from the connector (fig. 9). There are no screws or clips holding the hard drive in place. The hard drive is in a small “caddy” made up of two rubber strips and a thin transparent plastic sheet (fig 10). The two rubber strips fold outwards from the hard drive.
Step 8 – Insert your new drive into the caddy. The SSD I bought was thinner than the original hard drive, so I attached the stick-on plastic frame that came supplied with the new drive to make it thicker (fig. 11). Re-insert the drive into the laptop.
Step 9 – At this point it is best to check that everything works, because reassembling the case is a bit tricky and you only want to do it once. Fold the back case down and let it sit loosely over the motherboard. Flip the laptop the right way up and turn it on. Make sure everything boots up properly. If it doesn’t you’ll have to look elsewhere on the net for help as it could be many different things! (Although see my notes below first).
Step 10 – Reassemble. I found this more tricky than disassembly. Start from the back hinge, then flip the laptop and work around. Make sure all of the ports / connectors are correctly placed in the casing holes. As there are USB sockets on both sides of the case, it can be a bit tricky getting the case to fit back over the top (fig. 12)
Step 11 – Put in the three screws in the DVD tray area, slide in the DVD drive and put back the 17 case screws and the 1 DVD drive screw. Good practice is to get all of the screws in “finger tight” then go back and tighten them all up at the end. Job done.
Notes:
I had a few issues doing this which you may or may not also have:
(1) When I first installed the new SSD, the computer turned on but didn’t boot up. I replaced the old HDD to confirm I hadn’t broken anything (which I hadn’t) and got Windows loaded up. The issue was that before cloning my HDD, I formatted the new SSD in Windows, where it was assigned the drive letter E. I guess this was sticking and so the laptop wouldn’t boot. To solve, I reconnected the new SSD via a USB enclosure, opened the Windows 10 computer management app and went to “Disk management”. The main partition of the cloned SSD was again showing drive letter “E”. By right clicking on the partition, you can remove the drive letter so that the disk is unassigned. I re-installed the SSD in the laptop and it booted fine.
(2) During reassembly I really struggled to get the case seated over the front left corner of the laptop (where the audio jack is). This was due to a thin bit of plastic left over from the injection moulding blocking the jack hole. Using a craft knife I carefully removed this bit of plastic to fully open up the hole, which helped the casing seat nicely.
(3) The first boot after reassembly I noticed that the DVD drive had disappeared. Fortunately it reappeared after a restart!!
Step 1 – Flip the laptop over and remove the 17 screws circled in red in fig. 2
Step 2 – Remove the screw holding in the DVD drive (circled blue in fig. 2), then slide out the DVD drive to reveal 3 further screws.
Step 3 – Remove the 3 screws under the DVD drive, circled in green in fig. 4
Step 4 – Turn the laptop the right way up and fully open the screen. Using something thin and plastic (I used a kid’s glue spreader – see fig. 5 http
/www.hobbycraft.co.uk/glue-spreaders-5-pack/582522-1000) start from the front and prise up the silver panel. Work around the two sides until you reach the back Step 5 – Close the screen and turn the laptop back upside down. Using the plastic tool prise apart the back edge around the screen. Be careful not to let the two pieces of casing suddenly pull apart as there is a very thin wire connecting them.
Step 6 – Once the bottom part of the casing is fully unclipped, tilt it up from the back edge (where the screen hinges are) as in fig. 6. You will see that the small wire connecting the case to the motherboard labelled in fig. 7. It is possible for this wire to be unclipped and the case fully removed. However the connector (fig. 8) is quite tight. I decided to leave it clipped in and propped the case up using a box. You can still get full access to the inside without unclipping this wire.
Step 7 – To remove the hard drive, simply lift from the outside edge and slide away from the connector (fig. 9). There are no screws or clips holding the hard drive in place. The hard drive is in a small “caddy” made up of two rubber strips and a thin transparent plastic sheet (fig 10). The two rubber strips fold outwards from the hard drive.
Step 8 – Insert your new drive into the caddy. The SSD I bought was thinner than the original hard drive, so I attached the stick-on plastic frame that came supplied with the new drive to make it thicker (fig. 11). Re-insert the drive into the laptop.
Step 9 – At this point it is best to check that everything works, because reassembling the case is a bit tricky and you only want to do it once. Fold the back case down and let it sit loosely over the motherboard. Flip the laptop the right way up and turn it on. Make sure everything boots up properly. If it doesn’t you’ll have to look elsewhere on the net for help as it could be many different things! (Although see my notes below first).
Step 10 – Reassemble. I found this more tricky than disassembly. Start from the back hinge, then flip the laptop and work around. Make sure all of the ports / connectors are correctly placed in the casing holes. As there are USB sockets on both sides of the case, it can be a bit tricky getting the case to fit back over the top (fig. 12)
Step 11 – Put in the three screws in the DVD tray area, slide in the DVD drive and put back the 17 case screws and the 1 DVD drive screw. Good practice is to get all of the screws in “finger tight” then go back and tighten them all up at the end. Job done.
Notes:
I had a few issues doing this which you may or may not also have:
(1) When I first installed the new SSD, the computer turned on but didn’t boot up. I replaced the old HDD to confirm I hadn’t broken anything (which I hadn’t) and got Windows loaded up. The issue was that before cloning my HDD, I formatted the new SSD in Windows, where it was assigned the drive letter E. I guess this was sticking and so the laptop wouldn’t boot. To solve, I reconnected the new SSD via a USB enclosure, opened the Windows 10 computer management app and went to “Disk management”. The main partition of the cloned SSD was again showing drive letter “E”. By right clicking on the partition, you can remove the drive letter so that the disk is unassigned. I re-installed the SSD in the laptop and it booted fine.
(2) During reassembly I really struggled to get the case seated over the front left corner of the laptop (where the audio jack is). This was due to a thin bit of plastic left over from the injection moulding blocking the jack hole. Using a craft knife I carefully removed this bit of plastic to fully open up the hole, which helped the casing seat nicely.
(3) The first boot after reassembly I noticed that the DVD drive had disappeared. Fortunately it reappeared after a restart!!
Jonno123, you are a scholarly gentleman. Thank you very much for your informative guide - wouldn't have been able to install this SSD otherwise.
I encountered the same snag on the jack hole as yourself - and honestly, if you didn't highlight that potential problem, I would've been attempting to reassemble the case forever, haha.
But thanks again, the guide proved invaluable.
E. Rowlands
RancidFran
Estimable
- Dec 12, 2015
- 1
- 0
- 4,510
Hi there, I have a 250GB SSD, and wanted to add it as a main, but also keeping the old HDD, can it be done? I mean, I don't have a CDROM drive, so that slot is open, but I don't know how notebooks connectors works, will you help me?
Thank you so much in advance.
Thank you so much in advance.
Jonno123 :
I’ve just successfully replaced the hard disk in my Acer Aspire V15 V3-574 with a new SSD. This thread is about the closest I can find with instructions on how to do it, but I haven’t found anywhere a good resource for this particular model (and presumably other models based on the Aspire V15). So I’ve written up a little guide below with some photos, hopefully this will be helpful to others.
Step 1 – Flip the laptop over and remove the 17 screws circled in red in fig. 2
Step 2 – Remove the screw holding in the DVD drive (circled blue in fig. 2), then slide out the DVD drive to reveal 3 further screws.
Step 3 – Remove the 3 screws under the DVD drive, circled in green in fig. 4
Step 4 – Turn the laptop the right way up and fully open the screen. Using something thin and plastic (I used a kid’s glue spreader – see fig. 5 http/www.hobbycraft.co.uk/glue-spreaders-5-pack/582522-1000) start from the front and prise up the silver panel. Work around the two sides until you reach the back
Step 5 – Close the screen and turn the laptop back upside down. Using the plastic tool prise apart the back edge around the screen. Be careful not to let the two pieces of casing suddenly pull apart as there is a very thin wire connecting them.
Step 6 – Once the bottom part of the casing is fully unclipped, tilt it up from the back edge (where the screen hinges are) as in fig. 6. You will see that the small wire connecting the case to the motherboard labelled in fig. 7. It is possible for this wire to be unclipped and the case fully removed. However the connector (fig. 8) is quite tight. I decided to leave it clipped in and propped the case up using a box. You can still get full access to the inside without unclipping this wire.
Step 7 – To remove the hard drive, simply lift from the outside edge and slide away from the connector (fig. 9). There are no screws or clips holding the hard drive in place. The hard drive is in a small “caddy” made up of two rubber strips and a thin transparent plastic sheet (fig 10). The two rubber strips fold outwards from the hard drive.
Step 8 – Insert your new drive into the caddy. The SSD I bought was thinner than the original hard drive, so I attached the stick-on plastic frame that came supplied with the new drive to make it thicker (fig. 11). Re-insert the drive into the laptop.
Step 9 – At this point it is best to check that everything works, because reassembling the case is a bit tricky and you only want to do it once. Fold the back case down and let it sit loosely over the motherboard. Flip the laptop the right way up and turn it on. Make sure everything boots up properly. If it doesn’t you’ll have to look elsewhere on the net for help as it could be many different things! (Although see my notes below first).
Step 10 – Reassemble. I found this more tricky than disassembly. Start from the back hinge, then flip the laptop and work around. Make sure all of the ports / connectors are correctly placed in the casing holes. As there are USB sockets on both sides of the case, it can be a bit tricky getting the case to fit back over the top (fig. 12)
Step 11 – Put in the three screws in the DVD tray area, slide in the DVD drive and put back the 17 case screws and the 1 DVD drive screw. Good practice is to get all of the screws in “finger tight” then go back and tighten them all up at the end. Job done.
Notes:
I had a few issues doing this which you may or may not also have:
(1) When I first installed the new SSD, the computer turned on but didn’t boot up. I replaced the old HDD to confirm I hadn’t broken anything (which I hadn’t) and got Windows loaded up. The issue was that before cloning my HDD, I formatted the new SSD in Windows, where it was assigned the drive letter E. I guess this was sticking and so the laptop wouldn’t boot. To solve, I reconnected the new SSD via a USB enclosure, opened the Windows 10 computer management app and went to “Disk management”. The main partition of the cloned SSD was again showing drive letter “E”. By right clicking on the partition, you can remove the drive letter so that the disk is unassigned. I re-installed the SSD in the laptop and it booted fine.
(2) During reassembly I really struggled to get the case seated over the front left corner of the laptop (where the audio jack is). This was due to a thin bit of plastic left over from the injection moulding blocking the jack hole. Using a craft knife I carefully removed this bit of plastic to fully open up the hole, which helped the casing seat nicely.
(3) The first boot after reassembly I noticed that the DVD drive had disappeared. Fortunately it reappeared after a restart!!
Step 1 – Flip the laptop over and remove the 17 screws circled in red in fig. 2
Step 2 – Remove the screw holding in the DVD drive (circled blue in fig. 2), then slide out the DVD drive to reveal 3 further screws.
Step 3 – Remove the 3 screws under the DVD drive, circled in green in fig. 4
Step 4 – Turn the laptop the right way up and fully open the screen. Using something thin and plastic (I used a kid’s glue spreader – see fig. 5 http
/www.hobbycraft.co.uk/glue-spreaders-5-pack/582522-1000) start from the front and prise up the silver panel. Work around the two sides until you reach the back Step 5 – Close the screen and turn the laptop back upside down. Using the plastic tool prise apart the back edge around the screen. Be careful not to let the two pieces of casing suddenly pull apart as there is a very thin wire connecting them.
Step 6 – Once the bottom part of the casing is fully unclipped, tilt it up from the back edge (where the screen hinges are) as in fig. 6. You will see that the small wire connecting the case to the motherboard labelled in fig. 7. It is possible for this wire to be unclipped and the case fully removed. However the connector (fig. 8) is quite tight. I decided to leave it clipped in and propped the case up using a box. You can still get full access to the inside without unclipping this wire.
Step 7 – To remove the hard drive, simply lift from the outside edge and slide away from the connector (fig. 9). There are no screws or clips holding the hard drive in place. The hard drive is in a small “caddy” made up of two rubber strips and a thin transparent plastic sheet (fig 10). The two rubber strips fold outwards from the hard drive.
Step 8 – Insert your new drive into the caddy. The SSD I bought was thinner than the original hard drive, so I attached the stick-on plastic frame that came supplied with the new drive to make it thicker (fig. 11). Re-insert the drive into the laptop.
Step 9 – At this point it is best to check that everything works, because reassembling the case is a bit tricky and you only want to do it once. Fold the back case down and let it sit loosely over the motherboard. Flip the laptop the right way up and turn it on. Make sure everything boots up properly. If it doesn’t you’ll have to look elsewhere on the net for help as it could be many different things! (Although see my notes below first).
Step 10 – Reassemble. I found this more tricky than disassembly. Start from the back hinge, then flip the laptop and work around. Make sure all of the ports / connectors are correctly placed in the casing holes. As there are USB sockets on both sides of the case, it can be a bit tricky getting the case to fit back over the top (fig. 12)
Step 11 – Put in the three screws in the DVD tray area, slide in the DVD drive and put back the 17 case screws and the 1 DVD drive screw. Good practice is to get all of the screws in “finger tight” then go back and tighten them all up at the end. Job done.
Notes:
I had a few issues doing this which you may or may not also have:
(1) When I first installed the new SSD, the computer turned on but didn’t boot up. I replaced the old HDD to confirm I hadn’t broken anything (which I hadn’t) and got Windows loaded up. The issue was that before cloning my HDD, I formatted the new SSD in Windows, where it was assigned the drive letter E. I guess this was sticking and so the laptop wouldn’t boot. To solve, I reconnected the new SSD via a USB enclosure, opened the Windows 10 computer management app and went to “Disk management”. The main partition of the cloned SSD was again showing drive letter “E”. By right clicking on the partition, you can remove the drive letter so that the disk is unassigned. I re-installed the SSD in the laptop and it booted fine.
(2) During reassembly I really struggled to get the case seated over the front left corner of the laptop (where the audio jack is). This was due to a thin bit of plastic left over from the injection moulding blocking the jack hole. Using a craft knife I carefully removed this bit of plastic to fully open up the hole, which helped the casing seat nicely.
(3) The first boot after reassembly I noticed that the DVD drive had disappeared. Fortunately it reappeared after a restart!!
Apologies, new to the thread. I am unable to see any pictures mentioned in the article.
Venkyraghav
Commendable
- Dec 18, 2016
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Post by Jonno123 really helped. Great advice on the thin wire. Overall, 5 stars for the post.
On reassembly, had the same trouble. I fixed it by aligning the audio jack in line first, working towards hinges and other sides. In my case, I didn't have to chip out any pieces of plastics.
Video by hardy12 is irrelevant for this model #.
On reassembly, had the same trouble. I fixed it by aligning the audio jack in line first, working towards hinges and other sides. In my case, I didn't have to chip out any pieces of plastics.
Video by hardy12 is irrelevant for this model #.
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