I having Sony 4 channel amp 1000 watts I want to connect it in my home how much power did it requires volt and amps

Solution
High wattage car amps, especially for woofers are hard to run in a home environment because have a 12VDC power supply with enough amps to supply the large surges of amperage required is difficult. A car battery can supply hundreds of amps instantly. Home power systems don't have that reserve power.
It's more about how much output you want, I am using a Boss R1100M with a passive sub (4-ohm dual voice coil bridged into 8-ohm) connected to my Onkyo's LFE output. The Onkyo has about 65W/ch and I only listen to it at 50% or less, so rough safe estimate is 33W on the mains. To match sub power I estimate about 60W max output (since lows are more power demanding). double to 120W for inefficiency compensation. Old 350W PC power supply that has +12v@11A (~130w) is good enough, at max it gets quite loud where you have to yell to speak and things are shaking off the shelf from the bass.

have this setup for about 2 years now and listen to it daily, no problems.
 

kanewolf

Judicious
Moderator
High wattage car amps, especially for woofers are hard to run in a home environment because have a 12VDC power supply with enough amps to supply the large surges of amperage required is difficult. A car battery can supply hundreds of amps instantly. Home power systems don't have that reserve power.
 
Solution
Well one way to "cheat" is to just drive a higher ohm load so it does not draw as much power - was one of the main reason I bridged my sub into an 8-ohm load, if you look at the R1100M specs:

1100 W MAX Power 1 Channel
825 W X 1 RMS @ 2 ohm
413 W X 1 RMS @ 4 ohm

And following ohms law, max power for an 8-ohm load is 205W. So if I wanted to drive 200W into that amp, safe to assume 50% efficiency (usual for auto amps) I would need at least 410W or +12v@34A on a single rail. Kind of how I derived my max wattage since I knew I was not going to drive it very hard so what I am using is plenty for it.