Thorens non hardening grease

[dancingrye]

I have 5 Thorens TD 224's. I am re-habbing them, they all work, and I need a non-hardening grease for the changer's. What brands will work??
thanks,
Dancingrye

 

[Guest]

This might be a starting point:

http/www.theanalogdept.com/thorens_dept_.htm

 

[mamzwaan]

I have 5 Thorens TD 224's. I am re-habbing them, they all work, and I need a non-hardening grease for the changer's. What brands will work??
thanks,
Dancingrye

Hello,

I have just acquired a Thorens TD 224 which I want to restore and use it as a showpiece in our vinyl recordshop in Amsterdam (www.recordfriend.com). Can you provide me with tips and/or tech info to do a proper job ? I really would appreciate this. Please contact me via info@recordfriend.nl

Kind regards,

Marty Zwaan
info@recordfriend.nl
Amsterdam

 

[soundguruman]

I have 5 Thorens TD 224's. I am re-habbing them, they all work, and I need a non-hardening grease for the changer's. What brands will work??
thanks,
Dancingrye

I'm going to speak with some authority here, because I have repaired and set up hundreds of turntables for Myer Emco Stereo Store, on the East Coast:

There is NO non hardening grease. Grease attracts dirt, and the dirt becomes imbedded in the grease and oil, eventually causing it to lock up.
CLEAN all parts, remove ALL old lubrication, and then re-lube.
Food grade silicone, Teflon base lube, molybdenum based grease, ALL work very well, BUT ALL the old lube and grease MUST be cleaned off FIRST.
Turntable ball bearing: sleeve and race should be cleaned, heated and OILED.
THE HEAT causes the bronze to SOAK up the oil like a sponge. SO HEAT the bronze before re-oiling!
JUST ENOUGH to lube and free the parts. Excess lube attracts DIRT, and ALL excess should be carefully removed before operating the turntable.
DAMPING FLUID: is used to cause the tonearm to slowly descend onto the record. The damping fluid MUST be cleaned and replaced also, or it will also lock up.

The BEST cleaners and lubes are made by CAIG chemical company. These are NOT cheap.

OIL and GREASE: Surprise, the GREASE is there to hold the OIL in PLACE!
Mixing a small amount of oil with the grease provides the perfect combo, to HOLD the oil in position....so the oil does not RUN out of the assembly.

CLEANING: old lubrication may be removed with denatured alcohol. BUT don't get the alcohol on the plastic parts.

 

[dancingrye]

I'm going to speak with some authority here, because I have repaired and set up hundreds of turntables for Myer Emco Stereo Store, on the East Coast:
This is an outstanding 'bunch' of information. It is very, very useful, thank you. You've taken my question to another level. This answer will be copied and added to my other articles.
Again, thanks for taking your time to give such a complete answer.
Jeff



There is NO non hardening grease. Grease attracts dirt, and the dirt becomes imbedded in the grease and oil, eventually causing it to lock up.
CLEAN all parts, remove ALL old lubrication, and then re-lube.
Food grade silicone, Teflon base lube, molybdenum based grease, ALL work very well, BUT ALL the old lube and grease MUST be cleaned off FIRST.
Turntable ball bearing: sleeve and race should be cleaned, heated and OILED.
THE HEAT causes the bronze to SOAK up the oil like a sponge. SO HEAT the bronze before re-oiling!
JUST ENOUGH to lube and free the parts. Excess lube attracts DIRT, and ALL excess should be carefully removed before operating the turntable.
DAMPING FLUID: is used to cause the tonearm to slowly descend onto the record. The damping fluid MUST be cleaned and replaced also, or it will also lock up.

The BEST cleaners and lubes are made by CAIG chemical company. These are NOT cheap.

OIL and GREASE: Surprise, the GREASE is there to hold the OIL in PLACE!
Mixing a small amount of oil with the grease provides the perfect combo, to HOLD the oil in position....so the oil does not RUN out of the assembly.

CLEANING: old lubrication may be removed with denatured alcohol. BUT don't get the alcohol on the plastic parts.

 

[dancingrye]

This is the best explanation that I've read over the past 20 years.
Jeff

 

[dancingrye]

Best answer selected by dancingrye.

 

[soundguruman]

I don't know why I did not mention "Slick 50" lubricant, but it's pretty good for any application where you would use oil.
You can get it at the auto parts store in a spray can.
It's the slippery -ist I mean it cuts friction by like, 50%
Holy cow, don't get it on the rubber belts.