Archived from groups: rec.audio.pro,nz.tech (
More info?)
Phil Allison wrote:
> "richard" <rich@ihug.co.nz
> ** Replacing the deliberately snipped context:
>
> " They dont, its relied on that you have semi-sensable source material with
> a
> normal frequancy/voltage curve that tapers off - a loud 10kHz tone will
> destroy
> almost any speaker. "
>
>
>>>** Ummm - a loud 10 kHz tone may destroy an unprotected tweeter but
>
> not a
>
>>>mid/bass driver.
>>
>>The OP had tweeters blowing
>
>
>
> ** Shame you said "speaker " isn't it.
Speaker is a system involving drivers, which the tweeter is one of. I'm
nitpicking, you started it. Sure, a nasty high frequency whine wont do anything
to a subwoofer, but thats irrelevent here.
> No wonder you snipped that bit out.
Cropping previous conversation is general netiquite
>>>Tweeters can easily be protected from over current abuse by correctly
>
> chosen
>
>>>fuses, low voltage lamps or a device called a polyswitch. These must
>
> be
>
>>>fitted in *series* with any passive crossover network being used with
>
> the
>
>>>tweeter.
>>
>>Common in good PA gear where a nasty piece of feedback may go thru, but
>
> not so
>
>>common in the cheap shitty gear and almost never seen in consumer level
>
> gear.
>
>
> ** Completely irrelevant to my info - do you see the word "can" ?????
>
> BTW Tweeter protection is common in hi-fi gear, since the advent of
> polyswitches.
I havent seen it on the ones I have pulled to pieces recently, but I must admit
I was not looking too hard, and they too were pretty bottom end devices hence
the need to open them up, in that case it was replacing capacitors.
>>Also, even when protected, a sudden burst will often destroy piezo
>
> tweeters if
>
>>loud enough.
>
>
>
> ** Another red herring from a faker.
>
> Piezos are a special case - and you know that.
>
> They require input voltage limiting rather than protection from "over
> current abuse " as I specified.
The OP did not specify what the tweeters were, so this is hardly a red herring.
I am aware that piezos are a special case, and I am also aware that they are
often just connected across the input terminals directly with no protection
whatsoever against abuse in order to save a few dollars on the cheap bins that
are oh-so-popular among the garage band industry.
I would suggest that the OP checks every component in the crossover, including
the other driver.
As I often do not have access to a capacatance meter, what I usually do in those
cases is observe the responce on my analog multimeter and compare it with the
one in the other one that is not suspect. Not ideal, but beats driving across
town to check a capacitor out.
In addition I would check the internal cabling to the input jack that the
connections are to the correct place on the crossover if its one where the
internal and external connections share some terminals. I have seen one
conversion to a speakon jack where the connection was made to the wrong point on
the crossover bypassing part of the crossover. In that case it was low tweeter
but I can see that a misconnection may cause something else to be bypassed.