Asus N53SV laptop dont want to charge

bryanvo

Honorable
Jun 12, 2013
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10,510
I have an Asus N53SV laptop 3 years old who do not want to charge.

I've already tried three chargers and three batteries..

Either he does not recognize the battery or it does not charge it

If the charger is plugged in, the battery also does not discharge.
The AC LED is blinking red.

What could be wrong?

The laptop is completely open now so I can send pictures, I see no visual faulty components.
 
Without being able to actually inspect your laptop, my thought would be that your DC jack has a small fracture in it (possibly too small to see with untrained eyes). You can order a new jack on amazon for $5-10, but unless you are very good with soldering iron and desoldering you will need to take it to an electronics repair shop.


My take on replacement batteries and ac chargers:
Replacement batteries -
OEM is always going to be a known variable because that is what is your laptop came with and you know how it performs. For longest performance, this is usually the best option. In regards to aftermarket batteries, some can be garbage but most will work just fine; they do have a quicker decay rate (so if it took 2 years for your OEM to have less charge, then aftermarket might only take 1 to 1-1/2 years). Now the aftermarket ones can usually be had for 1/3 to 1/2 the price so can be a better buy then OEM (but it is still a risk)

AC adapters -
Only ever get OEM or the brand that makes the OEM batteries, in the case of ASUS that is Delta. I own a small PC repair business and I have seen many many laptops (and batteries) destroyed by these generic "replacement" chargers. The OEM has to warranty the laptop so the last thing they are going to do is use a cheap adapter that will fry the laptop (lets not bring up HP here). A generic charger company on the other hand does not care after they your money.
 

bryanvo

Honorable
Jun 12, 2013
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Thanks, I'm looking for a new jack.

However, I find it strange that he works with the charger, but not on the battery.
As it would be the jack.

Soldering is not a problem.
 
My first question is if the laptop stays on when pluged into ac with the battery removed. You said unforutnatly no that it does not stay on.

If it stays on, and you can wiggle the barrel plug jack around (like up and down and right to left) in the laptop and it stays on then it is not the jack
 

bryanvo

Honorable
Jun 12, 2013
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If i take the battery out while its still plugged into ac, it stays on

if i take the ac out while the battery is in, it immediately turns off

sorry for the misunderstanding, my english is not so good, im from belgium.

edit: i answered on the first question no, i was apparently not wide awake :)
 

Kirill A

Estimable
Feb 15, 2015
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I have absolutely the same issue as the author of the thread.

To me the problem apppeared after I left the notebook in Sleep mode for ~2 weeks. After I switched it on, the battery showed 0% and didn't charge. At that point, once you pull out AC adapter, the notebook immediately switched off..

I thought the problem was the deep discharge of the battery after which it doesn't charge with a standart adapter. So I gave the battery to the the local tech's so they try to charge it with a special device (dont remmmbr name) but they failed and told me the battery is apparently dead.

So I bought a new one and was surprised because it won't charge again!
The AC adpter looks fine, pc works without battery and the battery doesn't discharge while running with adaper switched ON.
The PC runs on the battery, but I didn't try too much since it doesn't charge..

I tried another AC adapter just for case but the result is the same, so it's not the adapter I take it.

I excluded sowtware reasons since I anyway set bios to defaults and ran recovery to fully reset the system.

Does anyone have an idea what that could be?
Thank you!
 

mikkeljakobsen

Estimable
Mar 26, 2015
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4,510


I have a N53SV as well. I've had the same issue a couple of times. It's not the charger nor the battery. Probably it's caused by a lose connection in the DC power jack so you might wan't to replace that. You can find it on eBay for 11$:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?&_nkw=dc+board+asus+n53sv

Instructions on how to replace the DC board can be found here:

http://www.insidemylaptop.com/disassemble-asus-n53s-laptop-fix-dc-power-jack/

Good luck :)
 

heatgap

Distinguished
May 26, 2011
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18,510
I feel the need to jump in here and post a warning about buying a new power jack for your N53-SV as I have bought one that was labeled N53-JN DC BOARD and this did not match the old board AT ALL in terms of the smc parts on the board. It took some looking but i finally found this http://www.discountedlaptopparts.com/used-laptop-dc-power-jacks/asus-n53sv-dc-in-power-board-69n0k3c10c01-01 ...let me tell you it was not easy finding the EXACT OEM power jack. It's fairly easy to install.

My problem: Even after attempting to install both new DC boards I can't get the machine to run of the charger...it will still run on what battery I have left but I get no AC LED light when I plug the adapter into the new DC BOARD...anyone know why this would happen?
 

CChelak

Commendable
Jul 3, 2016
2
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1,510


I have been working with this same laptop with the same problem. The problem definitely appears to be this DC power board, and you're right about the part NS53-JN not working. In this picture, there are two copper rectangles down on the bottom right corner of the image.
NEW-FOR-font-b-ASUS-b-font-font-b-N53-b-font-N53S-N53J-N53TA-N53TK.jpg
.

In the NS53-JN power board, there was a line or disconnect going through these rectangles. When I placed solder on top of both of those rectangles, filling it in, my laptop could then accept a charge, but would not charge the battery. That's as much as I got on that. I never did buy the correct power board and am still working with my make-shift one, hence why I'm on this forum.

Hope to find a solution for my convenience soon.
 

CChelak

Commendable
Jul 3, 2016
2
0
1,510


Another thing that I did in the diagnosis problem was use a multi-meter, or Ohm meter, to test if current was running through each component as it should. I'd test it on the ribbon cable, on each connection of the DC power board and regions around the battery (make sure that as you're doing this, the machine is not connected to a power source). That's how I found the problem at the place in the board that I did. I can't promise you'll find much because I didn't for this particular problem, but if you do, please let me know.