entry level... is it ok for me?


Jun 4, 2007
Hello all,
I'm on a Reflex crisis, I wish to buy one but I still have some doubt.
I'll tell you some thought I had hoping to receive your feedback.
I landed on a entry level category.

Why an entry level?
Budget: about 800euro.

Full Frame / Focus points / Double ring / pentaprisme: I don't know what they are thus I don't need them, right?

indipendent buttons: I'm sure is more confortable but I'm sure this doesn't justify an upper camera level.

Weight and dimensions: 500gr are enough to be easy carried on. More could be annoying.

Which entry-level?

D3200 and D5200: to exclude for their price/quality ratio, in addiction these camera don't take the most of the 24Mp sensor.

D3100 e D5100: great quality price ratio. I see one difference, on d5100 there's the HDR indipendent button, is it to activate the autobracketing? does the D3100 have the autobracketing? why use autobracketing if it's possible to use RAW and then do HDR?

What kind of picture I wish take?

HDR: I love it, just the question on Raw on the upper lines.

Photo with long exposure time (blurry): I need a filter, which one? there's a specific name for this technic?

Landscape: I live close to nature, it will be easy to take great mountains and lake pictures. I tried a 10-24mm, ok great but expensive. I just mention it because it could be an help choosing lens.
Foto sportive (equitazione):non richiedo un grande zoom ma una velocità dell’otturatore abbastanza elevata e l’autofocus. Non credo qui ci siano problemi con le due.

People and details: I think 18-55 is ok, but I should buy the brother il 55-300, I'm not sure if 18-105 is better to start with. I heard that 16-85 is largely better but I can't understand why!!! Waiting for 18-140... maybe doesn't worth.

I think is everything, thank you for your help!



Jul 29, 2011
Honestly the in camera HDR is pretty crappy. It's better to shoot bracketed exposures (3 exposures) and then put them together yourself via software. Pretty much any camera now days will let you do shoot bracketed exposures (You set the exposure)

The reason why your long exposures are blurry is: 1. The camera is not stable and 2. Image stabilization is turned on in the lens (Does not apply with some lenses)

Looks like you want a wide angle and telephoto lens. The reason why the 16-85 is good is because it has a high speed focusing motor and better glass elements (results in fast focusing and sharp images).


How do you know you don't need or want them if you don't know what they are?
Full Frame "A full-frame digital SLR is a digital single-lens reflex camera (DSLR) fitted with an image sensor that is the same size as a 35 mm (36×24 mm) film frame. This is in contrast to cameras with smaller sensors, typically of a size equivalent to APS-C-size film, much smaller than a full 35 mm frame. Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Full-frame_digital_SLR Also look at: http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2417947,00.asp

This post discusses focus points: http://www.all-things-photography.com/focus-points.html. The key is knowing how and if you want to use them.

Two (Double) Ring: The best I could come up with is that with a 2 Ring lens has independent controls for focus and zoom vs. the single push-pull ring.

Pentaprism: These links, http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11878/what-is-the-difference-between-a-pentaprism-and-a-pentamirror and http://forums.steves-digicams.com/pentax-samsung-dslr-k-mount-mirrorless/60278-pentaprism-vs-pentamirror.html, discuss the difference between a pentaprism and a pentamirror. Basically there is light loss with the pentamirror since it is composed of multiple mirrors vs. the single block of glass in a petaprism.



Aug 31, 2013
Hi, I would go with D5200 + 18-55, avoid the 55-300 and save some money for the 70-200, you won't regret it.

For landscape the Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 is great. Try it.
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