How can I connect a sub to my current 2.0 system?

[Blemur]

The sub I am looking at is the Polk Audio PSW 10: http/www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KVQBA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A17MC6HOH9AVE6
My current setup is Computer USB > Audioengine D1 > RCA Left and Right to my JBL Lsr 305s. My computer motherboard has a c/sub output, but I fear if I connect the sub in this way it will not play, as the Audioengine D1 is my default audio device in Windows, ie. it will either play music through the 305's or play music through the Realtek audio output to the sub, but not both.

The way I was thinking was purchase:
2x Rca male to dual RCA female cables
2x RCA to RCA cables
Put the splitters directly into the Audioengine D1, connect left speaker and left sub input to one splitter, right speaker and right sub input to other splitter.

1. Would this solution work?
2. If not, how would I go about connecting this sub?

Thank you for any and all help! (first time posting!)

 

[ien2222]

That's the best way to go with your kit, have the splitters just after the D1: USB>D1>splitters>speakers/sub.

Something to consider on the Polk though, the JBL's are flat to ~45Hz however the Polk's crossover starts at 80Hz, this might make it rather difficult to balance the two where you don't get a sizable bump between 60Hz to 120Hz. On top of that, it starts to fall off around 35-40Hz so you won't necessarily be gaining that much on the low end especially with the somewhat low max output.

I think that you would be better off going with the Dayton Audio Sub-1000, it's not that much more...$20 give or take depending on how sales go these next few weeks, however it gives you a crossover that goes down to 40Hz which will definitely help with balancing, also it has a bit higher total output and reaches a little bit lower to around 30Hz.

If you don't mind an extra $40 over the Polk, the Dayton Sub-1200 at $138 would be optimal. The price is still rather low, but you're now getting reach down into the upper 20's with even alittle bit more output. It's definitely a more capable sub than the Polk. If you have a pretty strict budget, I think the Sub-1000 would be the way to go.

The Dayton's would also be hooked up the same way as above.

If you like using a 2.1 system without having the need for more channels, a suggestion would be to get a DSP at some point where you can really take control of what's going on. This would give you an active crossover between your monitors and sub and also give you some serious EQ ability. Though I haven't had a chance to use it yet, MiniDSP makes some good products and in the case of a 2.1 system, you'd want the 2x4 Box.

If you decide to get this, you'd place this after the D1; so it's D1>MiniDSP>speakers/sub and at this point you don't use any splitters as the DSP will now split the signal instead.

 

[Blemur]

Thank you for your very in-depth answer! So if I got the Dayton I'd still need the splitters I'm assuming? I am quite flexible with my budget, I could probably spend up to 200. I just want something that will work well with my current setup! And as far as the miniDSP, would it be worth it enough to spend the extra ~100? To be honest, I am just looking for the simplest solution to add some more bass to my system!

 

[ien2222]

With the Dayton's yes, you'll still need the splitters.

As far as the miniDSP goes, it gives you more control over your setup...at the very least it gives you bass management with the active crossover which could be very beneficial. But it's something you can do later if you decide it's something you want to do, though you may find that you are happy enough without it.

Since you are flexible up to $200, I think the Sub-1200 is probably the best way to go for your budget.

If you decide to get it, when you set it up you'll want to set the crossover to 40Hz, turn the volume (gain) down to about a quarter to start with. Play some frequency sweeps (you'll be able to find various tools on the web) starting at 20Hz and then play up to around 200Hz. Since you don't have a mic for calibrating, you'll just have to do this by ear; what you'll want to do is adjust the gain on the sub higher or lower so it's fairly level when the sub crosses over to the JBL's which will happen around 40Hz-80Hz. You'll want the loudness to be fairly even above 60Hz as it is below 40Hz.

After that you might need to adjust the crossover point on the sub. As you play your sweep, if you notice a dip in loudness between 40 and 80Hz, you'll want to slowly adjust the crossover higher until it plays fairly even. If there's a bump in those frequencies, unless you can EQ that via software, there's not much you can do except to get some hardware such as the dsp, or AVR with bass management.

Placement will also make a large difference in sound so play around with positioning too. Once you get it to sound as even as you think you can get it, it'll be at this point that where you can start making adjustments for taste, whether it's via EQ, playing with the gain and crossover, or both. With it as even as you can make it, you'll be able to tell if you accidentally create a hole or huge bump while making adjustments.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

 

[Blemur]

Thank you very much for your help, you have answered all my questions and then some! I will go with the Dayton 1200 and look further into the DSP. If it seems like something I need once I've fiddled with the setup I will go for that as well. After all, the splitters will only be like 8 bucks for the both, so I won't be out much at all in that scenario!
Have a wonderful day