I too am having the same problem and rather than paying $400 to have it repaired, I'm going to attempt it myself. My wife has been on me about it, and we both know we can't afford to get a new one of the same size or even comparable. I'll try the fin tap first and I think I may try separating the "bridge" as well if I'm feeling daring.
thanks for all the posts and info. I will keep you posted on my progress as well.
pushing the fin down worked for me too to fix the picture for the night. Turning off and back on again, the picture remains correct. I'm assuming that the picture will be distorted again in the morning, but at least I have a temporary fix. Thanks again guys!
For whatever reason, if the set doesn't get bumped after you push the fin and get a good picture, it will stay that way. But it is hit or miss for me whenever I turn the set back on after a fairly long period off.
Still contemplating some sort of dowel rod wedged between the fin and bulb holder to maintain pressure on the fin.
my roommate and I had the same problem. I appreciate all the suggestions. We left the back panel off and put a piece of wood between the wall and the fin. That seems to work temporarily. Let me know if the dowel between the lights and the fin works. Thanks again guys.
Hi Guys... new to the forum. I have the same set and SAME PROBLEMS!!! Got the set for free from my bro so can't complain too much. When he gave it to me told me of the problem and said if you hit the set on top center it clears up... and it does!!! but am looking for something of a bit more technical fix....
Also... just bought an x box and I can run it on standard screen. Tried to run it on 1080 but the picture is GREEN... you can see it, but everything has a green tint. So then I hooked up at 480 and it worked fine for weeks. Took the x box to a friends house last night and came back this morning to hook it up and now none of the HD inputs are working... very frustrating.
Any ideas why it would be green on 1080 or why my inputs aren't working now. Don't think it s the xbox, its brand new.
I can only talk to your first issue on the WS-65809 issue. The distorted picture is due to one or more Integrated Circuits (ICs) coming loose from the circuit board (That is why banging on the top works temporarily). They are located under a heat sink "Fin" on the center board shown in these pictures. http/i320.photobucket.com/albums [...] eftMod.jpg http/www.tekn0wledg.com/Images/TV-HeatSync.jpg
I am told that if you solder the ICs back to the board then the problem goes away. HOWEVER, when I look back there it is easier said than done. Unless you can solder them WITHOUT taking the board out, it looks to be a real pain in the ars. What worries me is the apparent bridge between circuit boards.
What I plan to do, if I can ever get the time, is to simply place a wooden dowel rod on top of the fin and attach it to the wooden light holder with some small amount of pressure loading. I'm hoping this can be my poor man's fix. The fin doesn't get hot (I push down on it for my temporary fix each time) so there shouldn't be a fire hazard.
I have the same tv and same problem as well! Sometimes I can get half way through a movie and the convergence will go away! I bought my 65809 for $300 on E-bay and am all about the cheap way of doing everything. I called just to get an estimate on how much it would cost to get fixed and it was around 480$ here in NC,,
I am trying to get bold eneough to crack er' open and try to find the fin and the ic's you guys been mentioning above!
I appreciate all the advice listed above! All was helpful so far! Keep posting if anyone finally finds the "CHEAP MANS FIX"
The cheap man's fix. I don't have the pics here, but when I get home tonight I'll send them along with a description of what I did. Basically cut a piece of dowel just a tad longer than the distance from the fin to the board above it. (You'll have to wait and see the pics (Sorry). I had to use my staple gun to fix the board because it is designed to slide out. (Also have pics of this). One could probably use wood glue, let it dry then place the dowel rod. Sorry to leave you folks hanging, but will get my pics loaded tonight.
Sounds good!!! I think im going to follow your pics and try to do the same thing! I just shipped my tv to my new address in the midwest so wont have time to do it until mid December when i get there! Thanx again for all the help guys! Looking forward to seeing those pics on your idea!!!
I took the pics. Just need to download to PhotoBucket and link them here. Things got a little crazy for me over the past month right after I did the fix. I will definately try and get the photos uploaded soon.
First I noticed the thin board had a nice piece of wood spanning all away across it in the middle for support. I figure I could put an angled piece of dowel rod there and wedge it on top of the heat sink fin. This board however slides out easily. So I had to staple it on both sides (See pics). I used my handy compressor and staple gun for that. You could probably put wood or Gorilla glue in the slots on both sides if you don't have a nail gun. If you glue it, make sure you wait until it is fully dried (~24 hours) before wedging the dowell.
I started with a piece of dowell ~11 inches long with one end cut at about 45 degree angle. 11 inches was a little too long, but it was difficult to get an accurate measurement between the heat sink and board. I then did a test fit and naturally it was too long. A few trips back and forth to the mitre saw and whittle the rod down to about 10 3/4 inches.
WARNING: Your length may vary from mine.
Try to measure best you can and make first angled cut long, then whittle down the flat cut until desired legth. You want it to be a little long so that some pressure will be constantly applied to the heat sink fins and the ICs.
I had same problem and posts were helpfull but to much work for me. PC Richards charged $80 to look at TV and immediately determined IC's needed to be replaced, they charged me $76 for (2) IC's and $200 for labor to replace (Tech took approx 45minutes), total was $299.80 with tax (I live in NY). Problen resolved and picturelooks great!
I started watching you guys' posts on this subject about a month ago.
I finally decided that I wanted to look into fixing my $4000 investment on my own. I just can't see spending $400 on a repair job when I can buy a new 42" HDTV for $650 (OK, it'll probably be offbrand, but hey, Mitsubishi ain't exactly cream of the crop).
So, I stopped using this TV 12 months ago, but I don't want to trash it. Anyway, I just turned on the TV and ALL OF THE BLUE data is out of convergence.
I tried pressing on the large heat sink...but no change...and I don't even see the ICs mentioned above.
I don't mind trying to get to the ICs if I can so that I can replace them (or at lease try to).
I'm not 100% sure, but our issue wasn't BLUE DATA OUT OF CONVERGENCE. For my set, the entire picture had a convex look to it that distorted ALL the colors. Kinda like the shape of an hour glass on it's side.
Anyway, the IC's are actually located underneath the heat sink fin. Thats why for me when I push down on the heat sink fin, it corrects the problem. You can't see the IC's because the fin is in the way.
Matbe your's is a different issue and related to different IC's???
Well, let me update what just happened. Since the BLUE convergence was out all over the TV, used the convergence tool to adjust the blue... while doing that, I noticed that the picture was no longer bowed.
Maybe pressing on the heat sink fixed the bowing.
I closed the TV up and I'll keep an eye on it. I need to take my cable box to the basement and give it an acid test (1080i).
I have never repaired a TV before but have a good grasp of logic and was able to repair my 65".
The correction isn't that difficult. I removed all of the visible screws on the board which are about eleven. The bridges (White connection connecting boards) will pop up (I used a small cresent wrench) with a small amout of pressure (use an object that will allow you to pry it with out agressive force but try not to touch much). You will have to disconnect Six connections in order to allow you slack to pull out the cabnet. Once you've pulled out the cabnet enough to unscrew the scews in the front corners and front of IC Heat Sinc bracket (three screws holding ICs to Heat Sinc and three on the board between the ICs) you will be able to release the the board and lift up out of the cabnet. The reason I say its easy is because on the solder side of the board I found only one pin broken from the solder, I did find others that may require attention soon so I resoldered them as well. I put the board back reconnected everything (except the heat sinc) tested and the picture was damm great. After a moment I disconnected verything once again and added the coolant compound (removed old and added new (got from Radio Shack $7)) reconnected everything closed up the set and reconfigured the convergence.
The process (if focused) should take arround an hour and a half the results will be great.
I would recommend buying the Service Manual.
This will help for other case senarios in efficient troubleshooting needs. You could also buy the ICs