mitsubishi ws-65809 distorted picture

[pjhunt]

First off, Thank you to all of you for inspiring me to do something that I have been putting off. Now that it's done it was quite easy and I wish I'd done it long ago.

I'm writing this from memory as I preformed this project earlier. I wish I had taken pictures for everyone but it's really not that hard.

== == == == ==

1. Unplug the power going to the TV.

2. Remove all the screws holding the perfboard backing (brown portion on back of tv) (About 14 total screws. 8 black and 6 brass)

3. Remove the angled board just above the 3 circuit boards. This can be removed by simply sliding it out.

4. Remove the plastic cover located between the projector lenses and the circuit boards. (2 screws)

5. Remove all visible screws holding CENTER BOARD (about 12). NOTE: There are 3 screws holding a cross member on the back of the large heat sink in the middle of the board. You have to remove those before you can get to the 3 screws holding the heat sink. This LARGE heat sink is where your two ICS chips are located.

6. Remove the small (about 5) white ribbon connectors connecting the center board to the left and right boards. This are removed by forcibly popping them up. I used a pair of needle nose pliers on one end prying it up.

NOTE: For the following description, front means towards the front of the TV, and rear means towards the rear of the TV.

6. Remove all electrical connections from the CENTER BOARD (they just pull out by hand with a little wiggle) and remember which go where. (1 near the right/rear "closest to you", 2 near the left/front and 4 near the center/right front.

7. Using your thumbs, press the 2 small black clips near the front of the board and lift the board up with your fingers. It lifts very easily and if it doesn't, then you've missed a screw or two somewhere.

8. Hold the board upside down and gently wiggle the ICS chips individually. If you can see any movement of the pins on that ICS, then you need to re-solder those pins. (On my TV I soldered all pins on 1 ICS and didn't have to touch the other)

9. Replace all parts in reverse order.

10. Enjoy you new improved screen!

If you get really ambitious, this would be a great time to use a little windex on the Projector lenses and the mirror.

http/hundewanderer.com/2009/05/tv-repair-shepherd.html

PJ

 

[Guest]

Thanks so much for all of the posts related to this problem. I read the entire thread to my husband while he located the ICS chips and gave them a poke. Sure enough, the picture straightened out, halalujah! We'll save the soldering project for another day.

 

[Guest]

I had the same problem with the 65" and I did the wood push rod and only 1 screw to hold into place. It is working great know and if I have the problem in the future I know I can fix the IC's. Once I opened the back of the TV and realized it is not so bad to work on.
Thanks for the advice and quick fix with a piece of wood and only 1 screw. I save $400.00 for know and I'm prepared for what I need to do if the problem persists.
Thanks again,
Rob3065

 

[Andy99]

I have a WS-65809 and am occasionally seeing the red/green image get out of synch. It usually goes back to normal after 10-30 seconds, but it is annoying. See the picture here:
http/tinyurl.com/ycbeu3l - is this the same problem that you are all having (i.e. convergence / faulty IC's)?

 

[hope_45]

I would love to know how long 'the wood dowel' fix lasts? Pls respond.

I had the 2 chips replaced by 'new improved' chips and the 'convergence' redone, lens,
mirror cleaned and voila the picture is better than when new 8 years ago! Total cost $325.

 

[Judayork]

We had this problem with our TV. We bougt a kit online and took the board out.... seems real easy now that we have taken out three or four times now.... we did the soldering and put it back together...

It powers on but then clicks right back off....

Any ideas?

Juda

 

[bubba259]

I have a WS-65809 and am occasionally seeing the red/green image get out of synch. It usually goes back to normal after 10-30 seconds, but it is annoying. See the picture here:
http/tinyurl.com/ycbeu3l - is this the same problem that you are all having (i.e. convergence / faulty IC's)?

Your image is rectangular and fills the screen, and your color convergence problem is even across the entire image, so it looks like a more normal convergence problem. What's described here, which I have (great to have found this page!) is a highly distorted shape to the image, pulling away from the edges at the top and bottom, with worse color convergence at the edges than in the middle.

Thanks for all the information, everyone.

 

[rezrock]

We had this problem with our TV. We bougt a kit online and took the board out.... seems real easy now that we have taken out three or four times now.... we did the soldering and put it back together...

It powers on but then clicks right back off....

Any ideas?

Juda

I have the same issue with the power clicking off. Do you have any info on that?

THanks,

Rez
rez@rezrock.com

 

[mrtired]

Hi Guys... new to the forum. I have the same set and SAME PROBLEMS!!! Got the set for free from my bro so can't complain too much. When he gave it to me told me of the problem and said if you hit the set on top center it clears up... and it does!!! but am looking for something of a bit more technical fix....
Also... just bought an x box and I can run it on standard screen. Tried to run it on 1080 but the picture is GREEN... you can see it, but everything has a green tint. So then I hooked up at 480 and it worked fine for weeks. Took the x box to a friends house last night and came back this morning to hook it up and now none of the HD inputs are working... very frustrating.
Any ideas why it would be green on 1080 or why my inputs aren't working now. Don't think it s the xbox, its brand new.
Thanks guys

In the Advanced Settings panel, there is a palette setting for the high-def input. Change it to "RGB" and you'll be fine.

 

[Guest]

Just wanted to post a quick thanks to Edog2008. I did his hillbilly fix on my 55809 (I used a pencil cut down to about 4 inches and wedged it between the heat sink and the metal frame lip above it). Works great. I'm pretty sure Edog2008 is really Richard Dean Anderson in disguise.

Thanks again.

DJ LPM

 

[Guest]

Thank you to everyone who posted on this forum. As someome with a similar problem I found this thread and opened up my own T.V. All I needed to do was press down firmly on the large silver fin piece on my WS-55809 to fix the concave image issue. The whole fix took less than 10 mins. Unfortunately I had already ordered a TV repair man who told me it would be $477 (MD) to fix this problem. I paid him the mandatory $100 service fee and sent the man on his way. I wish I had read this thread before calling for the repair man but at least I saved myself some $. This is NOT a hard fix if your concave image is only slight like mine was. Don't waste your $ paying overpriced labor fees. Look at the post by pjhunt for good directions to follow for this problem. Like I said though I only needed to press the silver fin to fix the issue, nothing more. Thanks again to all who posted for saving me a few bucks!

 

[edog2008]

Thanks "Anonymous". Yes, my wife does refer to me as Macgyver on accasion. Just for anyone interested I have an update on my unit. It appears to have worsened. I have rigged up a dowel rod for quite a while and has been working, but now just about every time I turn the TV on for the first time in the day it reverts back to the sideways hourglass issue. I leave the back panel off and have to roll the unit out, press on teh heat sink and it's fixed for the entire time the unit is powered on. I think it's about time I splurge for a new better technology plasma or LCD. Any suggestions as to the best new TV in the same size ~65"?

 

[edog2008]

I would love to know how long 'the wood dowel' fix lasts? Pls respond.

I had the 2 chips replaced by 'new improved' chips and the 'convergence' redone, lens,
mirror cleaned and voila the picture is better than when new 8 years ago! Total cost $325.

Hope_45

I just posted a status, but thought I'd respond to your question. The wood dowell is still working but needs a little coaxing each time the TV is turned on now. Once I push on the heat sink and leave the dowell in place it will last as long as I leave the TV on.

 

[jwarino]

We had this problem with our TV. We bougt a kit online and took the board out.... seems real easy now that we have taken out three or four times now.... we did the soldering and put it back together...

It powers on but then clicks right back off....

Any ideas?

Juda

Hi Juda,
I have the same issue after soldering the chips, it powers on but then powers right back off

did you get your TV fixed ? What was the problem ?

 

[jwarino]

Thanks - you made this much easier -

I did the soldering - replaced they thing and now it powers on but then powers right back off

any ideas ?

took the board back out thinking it may of been a solder short - no luck with that...

still power on then it powers off

thanks ahead of time
jim

 

[savagechild530]

I have the same tv and the same problem, and as soon as I finish this post, I'm going to try this whole "wood dowel fix" and I've got my fingers crossed (toes too) that it will work. However, right around the same time this problem started, I also started getting weird static like horizontal lines that run up and down the screen. It doesn't happen constantly. Sometimes it takes a while for the lines to start up, but other times it starts as soon as I turn on the tv. At first it seemed to only happen when the base would hit (from the speakers), but I've also seen it happen while it's on the wrong input (plain blue screen with no picture or sound).
Does anyone know what could be causing this?