Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (
More info?)
Process is the same on film or digital so I guess I just slipped into
film mode without thinking. Don't have any suggestions for reducing contrast
for digital but wonder if combining 2 or more exposures in photoshop might
be the answer? I really don't know and am just throwing that out as a
possibility.
--
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"Jim" <Jimac3remove@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:3j1iubFnjeiiU1@individual.net...
> Hi Tony,
> Grateful for your suggestion but my original question is about copying all
> my old 35mm colour slides on to my digital camera and then on to CDs.
> I was just comparing the contrasty results I'm getting now, with the same
> results I used to get when copying these slides with a SLR film camera.
> Sorry if I misled you but I'm not using film any more. Only digital.
> Tried making a slide show last night using my copied transparencies and it
> was quite acceptable.
> Thanks again.
> Cheers.
> Jim
>
>
>
>
> "Tony" <tspadaro@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
> news
😀aEye.123567$XQ.1972206@twister.southeast.rr.com...
> > Have you tried Kodak slide duping film? The ISO is about 10 but speed is
> > not
> > too important. What you are doing is essentially the same as using the
> > mylar
> > but probably 2 to 3 stops slower.
> > By the way, you can have a lot of fun (and even get an occasional
usable
> > shot) by shining flashlights with coloured gels over them on the board
so
> > some areas gain a "tint". I used to do this a lot when making slides
from
> > B/W originals - which also involved an inter-positive, and were
> > consequently
> > a real PITA.
> >
> > --
> >
http/www.chapelhillnoir.com
> > home of The Camera-ist's Manifesto
> > The Improved Links Pages are at
> >
http/www.chapelhillnoir.com/links/mlinks00.html
> > A sample chapter from "Haight-Ashbury" is at
> >
http/www.chapelhillnoir.com/writ/hait/hatitl.html
> >
> > "Jim" <Jimac3remove@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> > news:3iv6euFnbb4iU1@individual.net...
> >>
> >> "Tony" <tspadaro@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
> >>>> >
> >> > --
> >> >>> >> Silly question I know.
> >> >> I have just made a Heath Robinson gadget that fits on the front of
my
> >> >> Minolta Z10 so I can copy my many hundreds of 35mm colour slides on
to
> > my
> >> >> hard drive and then on to CDs.
> >> >> To my surprise it works perfect as the Z10 in macro will focus down
to
> >> >> .5"
> >> >> Only problem is that I need some diffuser material to place between
> >> >> the
> >> >> slide and my light source which is the sky.
> >> >> I am using it with a piece cut out of an ice cream carton and the
> > results
> >> >> are good but there is grainy stuff showing because of the impurity
of
> > the
> >> >> plastic.
> >> >> My question is what is the correct material that is used in the
slide
> >> >> zoom
> >> >> copiers.
> >> >> What is it called and can it be bought. Would a Kokin diffuser
filter
> > do
> >> > the
> >> >> job.
> >> >> (Yes I did wash the ice cream out first)
> >> >> Any suggestion welcome.
> >> >> Cheers.
> >> >> Jim
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> > Thanks to all who replied and I am trying various suggestions at the
> >> > moment.
> >> Seem to be getting best results by not using a diffuser at all and
> > pointing
> >> the camera at a white painted board some two feet in front of the lens.
> > The
> >> board is facing and reflecting the daylight.
> >> Black & white negs come out pretty good but colour slides are very
> >> contrasty.
> >> This was always a fault when I used to copy 35mm transparences using a
> > zoom
> >> copier on the front of a SLR film camera.
> >> However, I think the results are now good enough to put them all into a
> >> slide show and copy to CD.
> >> Funny how they look much better when viewed from a few feet away
instead
> > of
> >> when working close up to the monitor.
> >> Thanks again for all the help.
> >> Regards.
> >> Jim.
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
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