Adding Toslink to a CLD-1010?

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Does anyone know if it's possible to add an Optical (Toslink) output to the
CLD-1010? In addition, the 1010 appears to have a strange tendancy to roll-of
high frequency treble and to boost mid-range at about 80Hz, causing analog
soundtracks to lose clarity and sound "warmer" than normal. Anyone know of a
fix for this?
Steve Grauman
 
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This first thing to do in all these older machines is replace the decoupling
capacitor with audiophile quality ones, Michicon MUSE or BlackGates. That
will do wonders of opening up the top end. Normal Electrolytics act like
low pass filters. Also it will sound a little warmer than newer LD players
as it has a multi-bit DAC.

Kurtis

"Steve Grauman" <oneactor1@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040829210518.07102.00000006@mb-m12.aol.com...
> Does anyone know if it's possible to add an Optical (Toslink) output to
the
> CLD-1010? In addition, the 1010 appears to have a strange tendancy to
roll-of
> high frequency treble and to boost mid-range at about 80Hz, causing analog
> soundtracks to lose clarity and sound "warmer" than normal. Anyone know of
a
> fix for this?
> Steve Grauman
 
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>This first thing to do in all these older machines is replace the decoupling
>capacitor with audiophile quality ones, Michicon MUSE or BlackGates. That
>will do wonders of opening up the top end. Normal Electrolytics act like
>low pass filters. Also it will sound a little warmer than newer LD players
>as it has a multi-bit DAC.
>
>Kurtis

I'd like to know if it's possible to add that Toslink connection so that the
superior DACs in my receiver can do the work where digital soundtracks are
concerned. However, this won't solve the problems associated with the 1010's
analog output. How much improvement will replacing the decoupling capacitor
make? And do you know if adding Toslink is even a possibility here? There's a
1010 up on EBay for $39 and it'd be a tempting buy (especially with the red
laser) if I thought these minor audio quibbles could be worked out. Also, I
know that the 1010 is said to have similar electronics to the S2, so how
similar is the picture output? And is there any way to adjust the 1010 so that
it maintains it's low noise levels but produces a sharper picture, more similar
to the 70X series players?
Steve Grauman
 
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I have never tried to add Toslink to a player. It can be done as long as
the chip set has the output and most do. I have not looked at the manual to
see what this one has.

As for the electroyltics you'd have to buy will cost you $10 to $50
themselves depending on your selection and quantity. You just have to
desolder the old ones and add new ones in their place.

I'm gathering you know the CLD-1010 has the red laser like the HLD-X9 and it
has a pretty good picture and it was made in the 1980's, mine was made in
May 1987. Puzzles me why Pioneer made this one of a kind single sided unit

Kurtis

"Steve Grauman" <oneactor1@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040830035446.10414.00001841@mb-m23.aol.com...
> >This first thing to do in all these older machines is replace the
decoupling
> >capacitor with audiophile quality ones, Michicon MUSE or BlackGates.
That
> >will do wonders of opening up the top end. Normal Electrolytics act like
> >low pass filters. Also it will sound a little warmer than newer LD
players
> >as it has a multi-bit DAC.
> >
> >Kurtis
>
> I'd like to know if it's possible to add that Toslink connection so that
the
> superior DACs in my receiver can do the work where digital soundtracks are
> concerned. However, this won't solve the problems associated with the
1010's
> analog output. How much improvement will replacing the decoupling
capacitor
> make? And do you know if adding Toslink is even a possibility here?
There's a
> 1010 up on EBay for $39 and it'd be a tempting buy (especially with the
red
> laser) if I thought these minor audio quibbles could be worked out. Also,
I
> know that the 1010 is said to have similar electronics to the S2, so how
> similar is the picture output? And is there any way to adjust the 1010 so
that
> it maintains it's low noise levels but produces a sharper picture, more
similar
> to the 70X series players?
> Steve Grauman
 
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>As for the electroyltics you'd have to buy will cost you $10 to $50
>themselves depending on your selection and quantity.

I'd want every component that could be replaced to be replaced with parts of
the highest quality.

>You just have to
>desolder the old ones and add new ones in their place.

If I bought this 1010, would you be willing to make the swap for me? I'm not
very handy with a soldering iron.

>I'm gathering you know the CLD-1010 has the red laser like the HLD-X9 and it
>has a pretty good picture and it was made in the 1980's, mine was made in
>May 1987. Puzzles me why Pioneer made this one of a kind single sided unit

Yes, I'm aware of the 1010's properties, which is why I'm interested. It's said
to have lower noise then the 97 and V8000 and is said to be extremely good at
countering chroma noise. How do you like you'rs?
Steve Grauman
 
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>I have never tried to add Toslink to a player. It can be done as long as
>the chip set has the output and most do. I have not looked at the manual to
>see what this one has.
>

Don't mean to interrupt.

I think it would be much easier to add a coax digital output than try to
implement TOSLink. As for converting the coax to TOSLink, RadioShack sells a
converter that can convert coax to TOSLink and vice-versa.

But, of course, modifications to the audio output sections would have to be
done to help with the analogue audio performance of the player. Adding higher
quality electrolytics and using metal-film caps in place of some electrolytics
is one way. Another is converting the output circuit to class A. Yet another
is replacing the stock opamps in the output circuit (likely to be JRC4558 or
JRC4560 chips) with better performing opamps like the Burr-Brown OPA2604 or
Burr-Brown OPA2134.

While that's being done, you could probably go for broke and add an AC-3 RF
output. - Reinhart
 
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>I think it would be much easier to add a coax digital output than try to
>implement TOSLink. As for converting the coax to TOSLink, RadioShack sells a
>converter that can convert coax to TOSLink and vice-versa.

My Denon A/V unit has inputs for both. Is one really any better than the other?

>But, of course, modifications to the audio output sections would have to be
>done to help with the analogue audio performance of the player. Adding
>higher
>quality electrolytic....

I'd like to go full blown and replace everything that could be replaced with
better units. However, I wonder now if the red-laser is enough to justify
spending this kind of cash on a 1010. I almost wonder if just buying a 704
instead would be better. Any thoughts? And I know that the 704 can have it's
video section "tweaked" is there anything that can be done for the audio?
Steve Grauman
 
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>My Denon A/V unit has inputs for both. Is one really any better than the
>other?

Not really. If you can go either way, go for coax as it will be easier to
install on the player than TOSLink.

>I'd like to go full blown and replace everything that could be replaced with
>better units

You probably won't have to resort to that.

>I almost wonder if just buying a 704
>instead would be better.

Probably.

>And I know that the 704 can have it's
>video section "tweaked" is there anything that can be done for the audio?

Also possible, but why? The CLD-D704 has very good audio quality, at least for
digital. For FM and FM CX, it's rather mediocre, but almost all players
produced during the 1990s are like that. One of the very few exceptions is the
DVL-700. - Reinhart
 
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I agree, you are going to alot of trouble for an older late 1980's vintage
LD player. The 704 does have a sharper picture and has higher grade
capacitors in the audio. Plus the 1010 is single sided but it's background
noise is lower but if you like the DVNR in the 704 then jusy go for the
704..

Kurtis

"LASERandDVDfan" <laseranddvdfan@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040901132838.22285.00000001@mb-m16.aol.com...
> >My Denon A/V unit has inputs for both. Is one really any better than the
> >other?
>
> Not really. If you can go either way, go for coax as it will be easier to
> install on the player than TOSLink.
>
> >I'd like to go full blown and replace everything that could be replaced
with
> >better units
>
> You probably won't have to resort to that.
>
> >I almost wonder if just buying a 704
> >instead would be better.
>
> Probably.
>
> >And I know that the 704 can have it's
> >video section "tweaked" is there anything that can be done for the audio?
>
> Also possible, but why? The CLD-D704 has very good audio quality, at
least for
> digital. For FM and FM CX, it's rather mediocre, but almost all players
> produced during the 1990s are like that. One of the very few exceptions
is the
> DVL-700. - Reinhart
 
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>For FM and FM CX, it's rather mediocre, but almost all players
>produced during the 1990s are like that. One of the very few exceptions is
>the
>DVL-700. - Reinhart

I'm not particularly interested in one of the DVD/LD combo units, as I already
have a good DVD player. Is there any LD-Only one unit that stands out as having
the best analog audio?
Steve Grauman