Duron 950 won't unlock

[Crashman]

Tried 6 times with the pencil trick on the L1 bridges, is there something else stopping it?

<font color=blue>You're posting in a forum with class. It may be third class, but it's still class!</font color=blue>

 

[Lonemagi]

Try using a trace pen?

<font color=blue>...we are not responcible for any amount of idiocy you apply to our advice.<font color=blue>

 

[Crashman]

No, using a #2 pencil. Before connecting the L1's, it wouldn't change multipliers at all, it would reboot with the same 9.5x. After unlocking, any multiplier change in either direction will lock it up, I can't even underclock it.

<font color=blue>You're posting in a forum with class. It may be third class, but it's still class!</font color=blue>

 

[svol]

Sounds like the same that happened when I did a bad unlock on my Athlon XP... redoing it could fix it.

My dual-PSU PC is so powerfull that the neighbourhood dimms when I turn it on

 

[Lonemagi]

I had an 1800XP that wouldnt unlock no matter how many times I redid the bridges. Might be a defect in the manufacturing that keeps the multiplier locked.

<font color=blue>...we are not responcible for any amount of idiocy you apply to our advice.<font color=blue>

 

[phsstpok]

Don't know. Pencil trick was the only thing that worked permanently for my Tbird 1.0. Conductive paint kept flaking off even with tape coverint it.

Even drawing the lines didn't work for me. I had to scrape the pencil back and for over the L1 gaps to deposit graphite in the gaps.


<b>99% is great, unless you are talking about system stability</b>

 

[munkey]

you might try using an erasure to erase everything that is covering the L1 bridges right now, the take a mechanical pencil and scribble on some paper to sharpen the point and use the point to close the bridges... thats what used to work for me

<A HREF="http/www.textfiles.com/100/actung.hum" target="_new">Relaxen und watch das blinkenlights...</A>

 

[cpuNOz]

lol eraser ?? P: no dude use 99% isoproponal alcohol and a Q-tip it works great 100% clean and leaves no residue + is fast drying. Use a soft #2 pencil make sure all the L1 bridges are closed mechanical pencils work aswell. Just make sure you can see the carbon lines good and make sure they are not touching ! good luck with the multyplyer my friend only got 1045 out of an athalon 950 using only the fsb but he had a crappy board tho .......

 

[munkey]

agreed alcohol is a better cleaning agent but it is a little difficult to remove compressed graphite with it. an erasure works in less than half the time and if it is that important that the packaging be sterile a little alcohol wouldn't hurt

<A HREF="http/www.textfiles.com/100/actung.hum" target="_new">Relaxen und watch das blinkenlights...</A>

 

[SidVicious]

I had this problem when I first tried to unlock my Duron Morgan, the HB pencil I used was'nt soft enough so I tried different grades of graphite : with a 2B, the multiplier stoped working after a few reboots, 4B and 6B worked perfectly well, I did it in april 2002 and the multipliers are still unlocked up to this day.

A word of caution, 4B and 6B graphite is very soft so handle it with care or you'll end up with a messy job. Sharpen the lead with a sharp edged tool like an x-acto blade and clean it with cloth to remove the dust. Pass 3 or 4 times on each bridge without pushing too hard. once you're done, hold the CPU upside down and gently tap on it to remove any residues, DO NOT BLOW ON THE BRIDGE or the particles may end up connecting the bridges together.

Fok Speling Misstake