Pioneer Reciever Doesn't Detect PS3 Formats (DTS,DD,true hd, etc) - WON'T SHOW SIGNAL LIGHTS

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Ransome

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I have recently invested into a high quality home cinema, which includes:
Pioneer VSX-823-K Receiver
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Home/AV-Receiver...
A 5.1 Speaker System: a Morel Solan (front) + Morel Primo SP1 (back) + Morel Sub8 (sub).
http://www.morelhifi.com/home-audio/solan
My TV is: 55" SAMSUNG LED SMART TV: UA55D6400
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/814260-REG/Samsun...

I have a PS3 SLIM 120 GB connected to the DVR/BDR hdmi port.
A PS4 connected to the GAME port.
A PC connected to the BD port.
And Cables connected to the SAT/CABLE port.
DVD port is empty.
The Reciver is connected from the HDMI OUT to the Samsung Smart TV's HDMI 2 (ARC) port with a HDMI WITH ETHERNET cable.

Now the problem is mainly with the PS3:
I never detects the format: meaning no SIGNAL LIGHTS are shown or light up - when I play a game, or watch a Blu-ray movie/series: even though I have set Audio settings to Auto: and all the advance formats are ticked-on: DTS, DD, etc...

I run games that have Dolby Digital or DTS featured for sure: Ni No Kuni, Final Fantasy XIII-2, Dark Souls, Resistance 3 and more: the receiver never shows: "DTS" or "DD" on the display, and no signal light icons are lit.

I tired changing the audio to EXT.Stereo, I tried changing to AUTO-Surround, and I have also tried changing to DIRECT: nothing happens:
The display on the panel of the receiver just shows "DIRECT" that glides and disappear after 3 seconds.

The same issue cannot be said to happen with my PS4:
When I go to the PS4 audio settings: the default was LPCM:
I have changed it to DTS: and I can see DTS flashing on the front panel for 3 seconds, and also a *DTS* bright blue signal light - lights up at the bottom left portion of the front panel.
When I change the audio settings to DD: a DD is flashing on the front panel for 3 seconds, and a small *DD* signal light is shown constantly at the bottom of the panel.
Those lights remain constantly regardless of anything. I only have Killzone Shadow Fall atm, so I can't test more.

So the main issue is with the PS3: Why doesn't the Pioneer receiver detects the audio formant and indicate it - by showing it on the front panel? Does it mean I will never enjoy any of those formants: DD, DTS. Dolby True HD, DTS HD etc - formants that my VSX-823-K receiver is advertised as featured?!

Another odd issue worth mentioning with the PS3: is whenever I play a game, or exit a game, or a movie, a Blu-ray disk - whenever the resolution changes and the screen turns off and on abruptly: the entire monitor flashes with static "snow" white with rainbow colors. Similar to the "snow" effect on ancient TVs when no signal was shown.
So I launch Ni-No-Kuni for instance: the monitor turns black, then flashes with static white for about a second: and then black again with "720p 60hz" shown at the upper corner: then the screen turns on and I can see the game. I never had this issue back when my PS3 was directly connected to the TV.


 
Solution
My receiver doesn't show the format used unless I push one of the 4 buttons above the arrow keys. Normally, my receiver just flashes words like "MP3 Playback", "IPOD", "DIGITAL PLAYBACK". It is probably just a preview mode.

Anyway, I have my PS3 set to only output Linear PCM formats. However, the only other options my PS3 gives me are AAC, DTS 5.1 Ch., and Dolby Digital 5.1 Ch.

I think it might be important to point out that, my PS3 is the 1st gen model, the CECH-A1. Later models have more audio formats to choose from and that could be why things are a bit more complicated with your PS3 than mine.

To check that I am using PCM when I am using my PS3, I click the ALC/STANDARD button on my remote, clicking through the 3 options I have...

XM Keeper

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My biggest gripe with Netflix is that several contracts for shows I liked have expired and now they don't have them anymore. I miss Monk and Avatar:The Last Airbender.
 

Ransome

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Good point. I acutally like how my consoles and systems are further apart. If I had another console, I bet I will place it somewhere remotely from the others (not TOO far). I think it makes my new console stand out, while my old PS3 instead of fading away - got flashed out with new fancy high spot and stage. I love my systems and take good care of them.

Funny that you asked, I was wondering when either of you two notice/comment about the piano. Actually - as you can see - the TV doesn't "stand" on the piano, it is attached to the wall above it. I think the height of it is just right. Unfortunately I stopped playing the piano back when I was a little kid, sadly, I don't remember how to do that anymore. Maybe one of these days. The piano is in mint condition as you can see, and plays really well to this day.
Yeah the blue controller and Red could be really cool! I am planning on buying this controller one day, for the PS4:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00D781OQ6/ref=s9_wish_gw_d1_g63_i3?ie=UTF8&colid=28T8NLVWHBRNL&coliid=I1M8QP5K4Y0VKK&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0WT1H8V5SM2N5BH9FPRC&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=455344027&pf_rd_i=468294
Personally: one of the most beautiful controllers I have ever seen. The red is also hot, but I think blue is enough and I already have a red dualshock 3 to match with it.

Would love to play some BlazBlue Continuum Shift, and BlazBlue Chrono Phantasma and Guilty Gear (the new PS4 title that's coming sometime) with my buddy and with all the music and stuff.

I will be getting some games for the PS4 soon including Metal Gear Solid V: Ground Zeroes and of course: MGS V: Phantom Pain. This is the one I am most excited about. Also, Infamous Second Son would probably be a fun PS4 game I am sure. And will be waiting for some other games including FFXV and stuff.

Your front speakers are quite big and beefy, I like it. I don't see the Center, rear, or sub in your photo. However I wonder: how do you set your speaker size in: Manual SP Setup in the HOME menu (when you press HOME on the remote)?
I set my Front and Center to LARGE and my rear to Small.
MCACC auto-detected my Front as LARGE but my center as small - since that makes no sense (my center is the biggest and heaviest center speaker I have seen, and surely bigger and heavier than my other speakers) - I have changed both to LARGE.
EDIT: These are the front+center speakers, you can check the specs btw: http://www.morelhifi.com/home-audio/solan
Have you ran auto-mcacc btw?

where are you from?
and is there any way to add friends here in Tom's ? so we can keep in touch in the future?
 

Ransome

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Do you guys have Steam?
My Steam nickname is:
Ransom Seraph
You should easily find me by that name, as I am the only person in the world with the nickname.
Please add me when you can, would love to chat sometime or play some games in PS3 or PC or something.
Btw, do you recognize my avatar? and where is your avatar from?
 
if i am not mistaken your avatar is the smart dog from cowboy bebop.

my avatar is from tenjho tenge, my signature is from rosario+vampire.

sorry but i really do hate steam and absolutely refuse to use it. the reason is that it is basically forced upon you and i have had very bad dealings with it so sorry i will not be using steam.

i do have a ps3 but i dont play all the common games most people do... i dont play cod, bf or any of the other really popular titles.
 

XM Keeper

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I do have Steam.
Username: XMKeeper (of course) ***I can't connect to Steam right now. Servers must be down.***
For PSN: XMKeeper
If you ever get Xbox Live: XM Keeper

I am not a heavy gaming steam user, but I do get on my computer a lot, . Feel free to talk to me.

As for PSN, I don't have a headset for my PS3, mainly because they are more expensive than the xbox 360 ones. I should get one though.

New topic, yaaaay!

I do have some rear surrounds. A pair of 1991 JBL G300s and they pack a serious punch
http://i.imgur.com/VNhAns2.jpg
Though, since they have styrofoam rings/surrounds, their days are numbered.

Here is an updated view of my main setup, after cleaning up some wires.
http://i.imgur.com/PSU1qiQ.jpg
 

XM Keeper

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Answers to your questions that I didn't answer.

I live the United States, more specifically Texas.

I have both my front and rear speakers set as large. I can't use the auto setup because I got my receiver as open box and it didn't come with one.

 

Ransome

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Hey guys I was wondering: how do you set your Manual SP Settings: in terms of db (channel strength settings?)?
Do you have everything on 0db or did you give the SUB a boost etc?

I found that at least when I play games at Auto Surround or PCM from my PC - even though my PC is set (at the HDMI source) to run at 5.1 surround+ full channel speakers - the subwoofer is just weak or unheard. I got my ear close to it and I think it is working faintly.
I doubt I have a problem with the sub, there shouldn't be...

*I have set my SUB PHASE to 0. I found that 180 sounds less impressive in music. so I left it at the out-of-the-box location of 0. (I have a button that you can drag from 0 to 180, not sure if there is anything between).
*My Xover (crossover) in the Receiver menus is set to = 100.
*I have put the Sub's frequency at 12 o'clock (it is a spinning dial) on the sub itself.
*The Volume of the sub itself is also 12 o'clock (meaning 50% I think?).

At the moment all my spears are at +0.0 db.
will appreciate your advice and info.
 
honestly i've never manually set my speaker strengths. auto mcacc speaker sizes set to satelite works perfect for me on auto-surround mode. my pc volume is typically maxed (i just adjust the volume on my receiver) unless i have various sources going in which case i normally adjust the individual progams to my taste.

sub switches are set at phase 0, auto and knobs are set at 120hz (i like things a bit more bassy) and 3/4 volume (though i turn it down at times)

i'd have to see the back panel to know where the numbers are on your sub knobs however i can say that the higher you turn the HZ knob the more frequently the sub will fire (since it will fire on higher frequencies). also not sure where your sub volume lies but somewhere between 25 and 75 percent is normally good depending on your tastes.

---

it could be that turning the hz rate knob up on your subwoofer may give you the sound you want (if you like more bass). you could try it at least and see if you like how it sounds.
 

Ransome

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I will take a photo of my sub's back panel, for now here is a link from the manufacturer website, online manual:
http://www.morelhifi.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/SUB-8-MANUAL-FINAL-11-2012-low-res.pdf
if its not working:
http://www.morelhifi.com/home-audio/soundspot-music-theater/soundspot-mt-components/sub-8
and press MANUAL.
Also, you get a good chance to peak at my SUB 8 specs. I think its a quality sub. And several shops spokes highly of it, it is also quite expansive in Israel - when bought separately (better price when combined into a set).
Morel Speakers are Israeli design.

Like I said, my 2 knobs are at 12 o'clock, and phase at 0, power at auto. I plugged the sub to my receiver with a signal high quality Subwoofer cable (sort of rca for subs) connected to the RED LINE IN (right side).
 

XM Keeper

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So the sub doesn't have a dedicated LFO? If that is the case, you might want to get an RCA splitter.

Like this.
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023603&p_id=6261&seq=1&format=2

You don't have to get this. To my knowledge, most good quality subs with RCA stereo inputs work fine with only one of the ports occupied. But, I also know a few that do require it.

As for the knobs on the back, change them while listening to a good bassy song until you find the sound you want. There is no RIGHT setup. Just what you prefer.
 

Ransome

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Alright thanks for the advice friends.
Now I have a new topic to discuss, a very interesting one, of which I can't find any answers online, aside from one article that confirm it is possible:

My Pioneer VSX-823-K receiver, supports connection to the internet/network router via an Ethernet port. Meaning, connecting the Receiver to the router with an Ethernet cable.
That will allow me to access my libraries, provide connection to internet radio, connection to Pandora radio, Netflix, but most importantly: allow me to use apps such as Pioneer AV Control App:
I want this, but I can't connect a cable there.

Now it happened that my Receiver is connected with a high quality HDMI CABLE WITH ETHERNET from its HDMI-OUT port to the Samsung Smart TV ARC port.
So I have wondered: if my Receiver is connected with an HDMI cable w/ Ethernet, and my Samsung Smart TV is constantly connected to the internet/network via WiFi (using a Samsung Wifi dongle): Is it possible to have my Pioneer Receiver receive internet and be connected to the WiFi - through the Smart TV?

I mean, I have bought an HDMI Cable with Ethernet, I might as well use it, right?
So I searched online, (an nearly impossible query to google), and I found this sole promising post:
http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20130121204543AAQ85Lu
So as you can see: YES IT IS POSSIBLE!
This is exciting! as you can clearly see in the diragram they provided:
http://www.hdmi.org/images/hdmi_1_4/hec_after_400.jpg

So GREAT! but HOW THE HELL DO I ACCOMPLISH THIS?
I tried pressing on NETWORK on my remote and receiver seem to display errors, I then pressed HOME and check my network connectivity and it seems it is disconnected, not receiving any ip, etc.

Damn... I really need help to figure this out: my Smart TV is connected and working with both my Smartphone that's connected to the WiFi as well, and also the Smart Hub: so I definitely have 100% connection to the internet and WiFi.
According to the topic I posted above, it sounds so simple:

"... Instead of running a second Ethernet cable to connect your DVR to the internet, you can use an HDMI cable with Ethernet capabilities to connect your DVR to the internet using the connection from your TV..."

"Ethernet enabled HDMI cables will work with any HDMI device, even if they don't support Ethernet connections through HDMI."
Please read the short post I linked, unfortunately, it doesn't provide the "how to do it" steps.
 
well ARC is "audio return channel" so i would not believe that would have anything to do with networking.

i do believe that poster just made a vague statment that was mis-interpreted. what he said about ethernet enabled hdmi cables (ie cables that just have the function of ethernet) being used on normal hdmi devices which dont ethernet is true but it might be meant that they are using it like a normal hdmi cable (ie one without ethernet) not as you may be thinking.

if a device doesnt support ethernet through hdmi with its internals and software then there is no way ethernet via hdmi would work. as of yet i dont see anything either supporting this or denying this.

if you search the net for "hdmi ethernet receiver" you will find many people asking the question however all i've found was a big fat no, not yet. of course i did not delve too deep.

the only thing i did find was instructions to use the lan port for the network.

in the case where you are phsically unable to hook up in that manner then you might need to use a wireless router. personally if it was me i'd just run a new wire up through the wall but your choice.

however... how do you have your ps3, ps4 and all of that equipment hooked up to the network to play online? surely you must have them on a wire or router already?
 

Ransome

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Shame, I was really looking forward to succeed in getting this to work.
Seems like this HDMI Ethernet Channel - ready devices won't even happen in the future - supposedly HDMI cable with Ethernet has been around for years....

My PS3 and PS4 are connected to the router via the wireless WiFi. They both have built-in wireless network.
Actually, I just recently acquired a CAT-7 Ethernet cable from a technician that works with my father and our family.
I plan on drilling a small hole in the wall (similar to what I did with the HDMI from my PC in the bedroom to the HDMI port of the receiver in the living room) - this time from my brother's room (where the Router is located) - right across the wall, over the doorway posts and down into the PS4.
I will leave some extra meters near the PS4 and tuck them away:
This way I can disconnect the network cable, and connect it to the PS3 - when I play Dark Souls II for instance, or to the Receiver if I wish.
It will be connected to the PS4/3 most of the time.

The reason why I decided to pass on the WiFi and go with Ethernet is because of internet stability. My Consoles receiver 70-100% signal Strength, but I had ups and downs when playing Demon's and Dark Souls.
This could actually be game related. But anyway I thought of going with cable for online gaming.
My Smart TV and SmartPhone can do good enough with WiFi.
Now you might be asking why not pull out 2 or 3 cables?
Well - I don't know, I didn't think about it until now: Also I didn't want it to get too messy with cabling.
Maybe 2 cables... I have 2 more Ethernet ports left in my Receiver (only 4 ports).

OH btw! maybe you know:
The cable I got seems like a good quality one, but it came with the network connectors/"heads" on both side (it is long length, so probably the technician was cutting it to size and attaching connectors according to customer's requirements).
Now he said he will arrive later - after I install the cable (drilling and wall and all) - and attach the right connectors to each side.

Is that OK? will it be of lesser quality/lower speed/stability issues than full, un-cut cables?
I remember he did something like this once with my Cat6 cable years ago: he got this tool - like clutches - that attach the connector instantly. Still I would imagine there is a risk or quality loss... but he says there isn't any problem.
 
you do realize that they make things called "wall plates" right?
95806546_walmartcom-ge-network-and-phone-wall-plate-office.jpg


its a much cleaner solution than just having a hole in the wall and a cable coming out. it also allows you to disconnect cables when not using them pretty easy without some cable hanging out of the wall.

essentially between wall plate to wall plate you have a cable with no ends which you wire up yourself to the plates. (although i think there are some wall plates which are designed to allow use of a cable between them with ends)

they make them in multiple styles...

some with hdmi plugs, some with audio speaker plugs, some with phone jacks, some with networking jacks and even some which run coax or a combination of all the others. really they are quite handy.

also you could use a single networking cable and just put a networking switch in which you would then connect all the devices up to. this would save you on wire costs as you really dont need to run all the cables to your router just the one!

i'll take a few photos ....

this is behind my speakers. my wall plates use bananna clips so they unplug/plug in very easily. this is handy for cleaning and the wall plates look very nice compared with just a cable through the wall.


this is behind my receiver where i have the two cables going to my rear speakers. the rest are just under the desk in my wire management tray.


this is the network switch i use under my desk. it takes the 1 cat5e cable i have routed under the floor and through the walls to the other faceplate in the other room which hooks up to the router and splits it into 4-5 ways so i can have all of my devices hooked up via cable. its quite nice actually.


same thing but this is the one my router uses. one goes to the room with the previous image network switch (for running all my own peripherals) and the other goes to another room which has a single computer in it. our phone is in the office with the router and the coax is our internet service running in (i dont have the tool for doing coax so i didnt put it on the faceplate)


this is how i do cable management. they make a tray with "fingers" which you can break off or put smaller wires between and a "cap" which covers all of it. its quite nice for hiding wires under the desk!


---

as for re-using a cat5e cable.... well if you are putting a splice in it (making it longer) technically it can effect the signal if not done right however its not normally an issue unless you have alot of splices. keep in mind that a connection jack is essentially a splice and i'm personally using quite a few. we have 1 at the router, 1 on the wall plate, 1 on the other wall plate, 1 on my switch, 1 leaving the switch and finally 1 on the back of my device. that is 6 connection points and i notice nothing. as long as you dont have an excessive number you are fine.

i think that a network switch like i have might work perfect for you now that i thought about it. your choice.

in any case hope i gave you some ideas!

 

XM Keeper

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Saw what ssddx posted.

DEFINITELY get a switch. They will make networking multiple devices through ethernet so easy and painless. Plug one cable from your router to a port on the switch, and plug your devices in to the switch. It is that easy (if nothing goes wrong, of course).

Most 10/100 Mbps switches are cheap, at least around here.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100010066%20600015751&IsNodeId=1&name=10%2f100Mbps

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166035

http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=105&cp_id=10521&cs_id=1052104

I would take having a switch over using wifi any day.
 

Ransome

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Thank you guys again for taking the time and helping: putting links, writing suggestions, photos. You are great.
I will need to research a bit about these stuff, and come back to you.

Will try to get a switch from the same PC-tech guy that brought us the cables. He usually have this kind of secondary hardware.
I will also ask him about those wall panels: never heard of them before, although I have seen stuff like that for phone lines.

Have no ideas where to find good wallplates or switches here in Israel, and honestly not sure how to fit them into a concrete-block based wall. Also will need the wallplate to have the same CAT 7 cable inside them.

@SSDDX can you tell me - HOW you plug those wallplates? how did you set them into the walls? how did you transfer the cable inside the wall exactly?
Also how did you wire up the cable between wallplates - into the wallplate properly? do you need special tools for it?

Any other advantages for using a switch over pulling out cables from the router?

BTW - someone also recommended me to buy an Access Point - supposedly to get 100% signal strength WiFi into my living room.
I thought I rather go wired with cables, although I always wondered if 70% wireless network is slower than 100% or simply less stable?
Additionally I have a feeling that this much WiFi radiation can be really bad for your health.
 
i'm not a networking guy at all but i've definitely noticed a corellation between signal strength and download speed.

i cannot say about wifi and health effects as i really dont know. in any case a wired network is faster and more reliable if its possible. some buildings/areas might not be set up in such a way that makes pulling cables easy or possible.

---

as for how the wallplates are mounted... we live in a concrete block house however the walls i used are interior and as such are studded (wood framed, drywall covered) so i did not need to deal with block at all.

we typically use handy boxes (electrical boxes) set into the wall and the face plate simply screws on to that box with two screws.

my speaker wire and cat5e is just wired to the connectors on the back of the female plugs on those plates. you do not need special tools for speaker wire and generally not for cat5 either provided you arent making your own custom length cables (i just bought short cables and a long cable without ends on it for under the floor)

since our walls are hollow (again, wood studs every 16" with drywall coverings) there is plenty of room. i just needed to drill up through the sill plate from the basement and fish a wire up.

using a switch you can connect up more devices via wire than your router can handle normally (my router only has 5 connections which means only 5 devices but since i have a 5 port switch i can connect up to 9 devices). a switch is generally going to be cheaper than buying all that cat5e as well. its also easier.

how do you have the wires fished currently? (the network cables and your speaker wire) ?

please take some photos on how you have things routed as well as some basic information about how your house is framed, which walls are concrete and which are wood (if any). or please note if your concrete walls have boards tacked to them with foam insulation and then drywall over them.

 
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