Looking for PC passive speakers and Amp

noxicate

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Nov 24, 2012
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10,510
My speakers have recently become to annoying to deal with as one of the speaker plugs going into the sub has become damaged and cuts out until I reposition it. These speakers are over 6 years old and have served their purpose; it is time for an upgrade. I would like to get some passive speakers and an amp as that seems to give you better quality and more control.

Pioneer SP-BS22-LR is also a very well reviewed speaker on Amazon and mentioned quite a bit on other forums. This one definitely looks a bit better, is more affordable, and takes less desk space. It really seems Pioneer is doing well in the speaker market as I keep reading more and more suggestions to look into these speakers. And looking at others in their line up, the BS22 looks to be an upgraded model to Pioneer SP-BS21-LR

Some other speakers that I have seen mentioned are the BIC America DV62si,JBL ES20, and the Polk Audio TSi100.

Has anyone got any other recommendations? I am pretty sure I will go with the Dayton DTA-100a since the increase in power will boost performance.

I did read on the reviews of the Dayton DTA-100a about issues with it failing when used with speakers that aren't 8 ohms. The majority of the speakers listed here to use with it are all 6 ohms; will this not cause a problem? And also, when adding a sub into this system in the future, will I need to route the speakers through the sub? Will this make the amplifier obsolete?
 

nukemaster

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Speakers are rather personal so if you can get to a store to listen to some, it may be a good idea.

That amp is simply NOT made to add a sub to.

It would need an output.

You may be in luck however, Computers have multiple outputs. As long as your sub has its own crossover(it should) you can feed it a full spectrum of audio and it will deal with removing everything that is above its playback frequency.

If you are using onboard audio(with jack re-tasking), you can just set your control panel to make the black plug(normally for REAR out) to be a second FRONT out and send that over to the sub.

A Y-cable may also be used to in a pinch to run both speakers and the sub off one output(after all the sound card can drive 16-32 ohm headphones the 2000ohm amp + sub will not be much of an issue for it. Line in is also a voltage device not a current device).

If they recommend sticking with 8ohm, I would find some 8ohm speakers.
 

noxicate

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Nov 24, 2012
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I do indeed have the ability to retask so that explains how I will be able to set it up. I have actually looked into checking some out locally, but I would never trust major retailers to give me an honest opinion on sound quality. Too many variables are there to allow them to make a sale instead of give me an honest listening experience. I think that the speakers I listed would be more than enough as far as quality for what I intend to use them for.

I am actually having a bit of trouble finding an amp to pair with 6 ohm speakers truly. The last thing I want to do is burn out the amp due to poor pairing and power inefficiency.
 

nukemaster

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Yeah, the dayton audio website says not to use under 8ohm on the website. above would be fine, but good luck finding quality 16ohm speakers.

If you wanted to have 4 speakers(but not surround sound just to give you music over a wider area or in 4 corners) i would say series 2 of the 6ohm speakers and get 12 ohms. do NOT parallel them as that would give you 3 ohms. This does lower the amps power output, but also makes for a rather easy load on it.

Sorry to say I have very little experience with Class D/T/PWM amps aside of having them built into a sub.
 

noxicate

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Nov 24, 2012
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10,510
This setup will probably never exceed a 2.1 setup. For now, just two bookshelf speakers and an amp should be more than sufficient. I have a home theater setup for movies and high quality music. This solution is really just to replace my dying logitech without buying some all in one system. I would rather do my own pairing to get better quality.